Topic: 5 hp Viking/seized and then… – Antique Outboard Motor Club,Inc

This topic has 9 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 3 months ago by 1946zephyr.

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October 27, 2016 at 2:36 am #5579
b-morrison
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I have a 1958, 5 hp Viking which after new coils, impeller, ran very well. After a few (5) trips of an hour or so, it began to slow…then stopped, seized. Couldn’t move the starter/recoil, flywheel, and the bottom was free. Left it for about 2 weeks trying it from time to time putting nothing in it to help undo it. Then ,just like that it was free. Put a little gas in and it started right up. Stopped it and checked water pump, lines ???nothing appears wrong.What do I need to check or should I just run it again and see. I have acquired another power head and am just questioning next move. In no hurry as weather is on a decline. (Brian in Winnipeg)
October 27, 2016 at 3:01 am #46537
fleetwin
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US Member
How do you know it is not the gearcase that is seizing? Just because the prop shaft spins does not guarantee the driveshaft isn’t seizing up. Have you drained/changed the gear lube? I’m not sure just what vintage of OMC components your engine has, so can’t make too many specific recommendations. If the powerhead is seizing, this is usually due to not enough oil or overheating.
Don’t think there is much to lose by trying the engine again. Be sure to drain/refill/inspect the gear lube and mix at 16:1
October 27, 2016 at 3:28 am #46540
amuller
Participant
Does this by any chance have the shock absorber thingy in the lower drive shaft, like the J/E 5.5? It is possible for these to separate and bear very hard on the underside of the water pump plate.
October 27, 2016 at 6:09 am #46548
frankr
Participant
quote amuller:

Does this by any chance have the shock absorber thingy in the lower drive shaft, like the J/E 5.5? It is possible for these to separate and bear very hard on the underside of the water pump plate.

Yep, if it is a gearshift motor by OMC, of that vintage, it has a shock absorber.

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October 27, 2016 at 1:28 pm #46554
labrador-guy
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Yup, like Frank posted it is a good chance your shock absorber is the problem. I took a 5 1/2 apart three times before I figured it out. Here is a couple pictures of a broken shock absorber.

dale
October 27, 2016 at 1:33 pm #46556
labrador-guy
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Try this.

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October 27, 2016 at 7:26 pm #46578
b-morrison
Participant
thanks guys, I’ll check that out……..Brian
October 27, 2016 at 8:27 pm #46584
fleetwin
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US Member
Brian-
Don’t take that gearcase apart until you have ruled out other stuff…You have to remove the powerhead in order to get the gearcase off, then rip the gearcase apart to inspect it…Drain the gear lube first, signs of water or burnt lube might be a better indicator of the bad shock problem everyone is referring to. I would hate to see you rip the thing to pieces and not find a problem. On the other hand, the water pump impeller should probably be changed on this old engine to avoid trouble. Once the gearcase is off for impeller replacement, it isn’t much more work to inspect the driveshaft shock assembly. Oftentimes, you can see damage to the upper seal/bushing housing when the driveshaft stretches out, after you remove the SS impeller plate.
Again, are you sure the engine did not seize due to an overheat? What gas/oil mix are you using? Have you checked the compression? Post some pictures of your engine if you can….
OK, just reread your post. You have already replaced the impeller and had the gearcase off….Unfortunately, this is not guarantee the engine is not overheating. Was the gear lube in good shape when you changed it?
October 28, 2016 at 4:19 am #46608
amuller
Participant
It is possible for the two sections of the shock absorber housing to move apart without the spring being broken, in which case they can often be pressed back together. Proper dimensions can be found in threads here.

People have been known to weld or braze or pin these together when the springs break. In this case one should probably use a brass "shear" pin to protect the drive line.

If you are doing the water pump it’s not much more work to access the shock absorber. But you really don’t even need to take it out. There should be some end play (up and down) I don’t know how much is "normal" but even a few thou should keep things from binding up.
October 28, 2016 at 10:06 am #46613
1946zephyr
Participant
One thing you can do to test the shock absorber condition. Turn the drive shaft (in the clockwise direction) before you pull the water pump and stuff out. Then loosen the water pump housing screws three turns out. Turn the drive shaft again. Is there a difference in drag? If your drive shaft turns easier after loosening up the water pump housing screws, then it is likely that your shock absorber is in need of attention. A lot of times, they expand, when they blow, then that puts pressure on the upper bearing hub, which is right under the water pump wear plate. Ugly scoring of the bearing surfaces, is commonplace for the shock absorbers that grenade out.
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