’57 Evinrude Sportwin Ignition Question

Home › Forum › Ask A Member › ’57 Evinrude Sportwin Ignition Question

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 24 total)
1 2 3
  • Author
    Posts
  • September 28, 2015 at 2:18 am #2650
    motor-monkey
    Participant

      We have a 1957 Evinrude Sportwin 10 that appears to have fairly low hours. I removed the flywheel and noticed that the breaker cam has what "looks like" wear marks on the fatter end that pushes against the breaker arms to open the points (see picture below). I don’t see how something like that could actually wear, and the area in the metal doesn’t exactly match where the shoes are on the breaker arms (look how wide of an area it covers). Have any of you seen something like this before? Was it machined that way? And does it really even matter? Also, I want to replace the spark plug wires and boots. Does anyone have a good source for buying these, or do you just go to NAPA and get the closest thing?

      Thanks,
      Mark

      September 28, 2015 at 9:13 am #24754
      chris-p
      Participant

        Does the flywheel have forward/aft movement? Possibly bad upper bearing. They can wear from lack of an oil wick under the coil, but that seems different.

        Get 7mm metallic core spark plug wire from a tractor supply, napa, the dealer, etc…..

        September 28, 2015 at 9:36 am #24755
        billw
        Participant

          US Member

          Holy smoke, and I do mean smoke….is that how it come out of the engine, all black like that? Is the rest of the magneto black? It’s as if the upper seal is shot (along with the bearing, possibly) and it was back-firing into the mag. I don’t remember ever seeing any cam that black. Anyway, yeah, I would say the cam is worn and yes, it would matter. But the upper seal problem would be a bigger priority, in my opinion.

          Long live American manufacturing!

          September 28, 2015 at 1:32 pm #24761
          fleetwin
          Participant

            US Member

            Yes sir, that is an extreme mess.
            What do the rubbing blocks on the two sets of points look like? Perhaps the rubbing blocks are extremely worn/something is wrong causing metal on metal contact between one/both sets of points and the point cam.

            September 28, 2015 at 6:27 pm #24782
            motor-monkey
            Participant

              Thanks for the responses!

              I won’t be able to answer some of the questions until I get home from work, but maybe the pictures below might help. The black on the cam isn’t as bad in person as it looks in the picture. The blackness is from oil which you can see in the other pictures. I did wonder about that: why so oily throughout the whole magneto area? Would it be a bad upper seal like you mentioned?


              Thanks,
              Mark

              September 28, 2015 at 7:59 pm #24786
              chris-p
              Participant

                yeah that upper seal is shot. Before spending any money though, test that bearing, it could be the reason the seal is shot, along with the cam.

                September 29, 2015 at 12:19 am #24804
                motor-monkey
                Participant

                  I checked and I can’t detect any movement in the shaft fore & aft.

                  To replace the seal, do you need to open up the crankcase?

                  – Mark

                  September 29, 2015 at 12:30 am #24806
                  chris-p
                  Participant

                    No it can be pulled without opening her up.

                    Easiest way by far is with one of the tools. Frank R on this forum makes a superb one.

                    Or you can drive a couple sheet metal screws into it and pry out.

                    To install, cut a piece of abs pipe or something similar, same or slightly smaller OD as the seal, long enough to slide over crank and tap back in.

                    September 29, 2015 at 12:41 am #24809
                    motor-monkey
                    Participant

                      Is this the same Frank of "Frank’s Outboard Tools"? If so, I’ve actually bought several tools from him, but not that one. I don’t see it on his website.

                      Thanks,
                      Mark

                      September 29, 2015 at 4:30 am #24850
                      Mumbles
                      Participant

                        The motor is a ten horse so it will have carbon seals on the crank top and bottom. No special puller or tools needed.

                        The round carbon seal will have two little notches or openings in it which can be used to hook into and pull it off the shaft. It’s important to use the correct OMC/BRP 301967 O ring which fits inside the seal and be gentle with the carbon. It is brittle and can break quite easily.

                      • Author
                        Posts
                      Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 24 total)
                      1 2 3
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.