’57 Evinrude Sportwin Ignition Question

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  • September 29, 2015 at 7:42 pm #24893
    garry-in-michigan
    Participant

      Lifetime Member

      That ware happened on my ’55 Big Twin when flakes of the cracked plastic coils got caught in the oiler wick. The ware changed the timing a degree or so, but was quickly corrected with the timing tool that Frank Robb has duplicated.

      . . . 😉

      September 29, 2015 at 10:48 pm #24905
      motor-monkey
      Participant

        I have that timing tool from Frank 🙂 .

        I contacted Frank and he said what Mumbles said: I don’t need the special tool for the 10HP. He also suggested that I remove the mag plate, disassemble and degrease everything, and check the mounting rings. I’ll also need to replace that cam.

        Thanks for all the replies guys.

        – Mark

        July 27, 2016 at 12:04 am #41003
        motor-monkey
        Participant

          Hey guys –

          I wanted to provide an update as well as ask your opinion about a new problem.

          Mumbles was right: that carbon seal is very brittle and was the cause of the oily mess. When we got to that point of the disassembly, it was obvious – the carbon seal was broken in two with a chunk missing. We never hammered on the flywheel nut, so I’m sure it was like that when we bought it a few years ago. The points were burned which I have read can be caused by excessive oil, so that may have been the reason for that, but we went ahead and replaced the condensers anyhow. We also replaced the points, obviously the carbon seal and o-ring, the cam, and the spark plug wires (the original reason why we opened it up). Everything was cleaned and lubed, the timing set using Frank’s kit, the coils set using Frank’s locating ring, made sure we had good spark on both wires, and here is what we ended up with:

          While we were at it, we replaced the fuel line from the pressure fed gas tank as well as replaced the o-rings at the connector which were old and hard. We fired it up in the Spring in the barrel and it started and idled up and down beautifully.

          So here’s the problem. We took it with us on vacation for it’s first performance on a boat. The good news is that it started on one pull every time and idled really really nice. The bad news is that when we put it into gear, it would stutter slightly and not go any faster than a fast idle. Sure seems like a fuel issue, but what? The primer knob stayed hard and pressing it while running made no difference. Playing with the high speed needle adjustment made no difference. Jiggling the fuel line made no difference. We put in a carb rebuild kit a few years ago after we first bought it. The motor is always fogged and winterized properly. Gas was fresh and ethanol-free.

          What do you think?

          Thanks,
          Mark

          July 27, 2016 at 12:33 am #41004
          wedgie
          Participant

            Are you sure both coils are good? They look ok, but I’ve had good looking bad coils. Also, hard to see, but looks like the condenser wire may have contacted the flywheel. Did the points get gaped properly? the one set looks a bit wide int the pic .

            Also, is the safety lockout lever not letting you throttle up all the way, or does the handle turn all the way to fast but only goes to fast idle?

            July 27, 2016 at 12:42 am #41005
            motor-monkey
            Participant

              The coils tested as good, and the picture was taken after the condensers were replaced and before the flywheel was put back on, so the wires are definitely okay. And yes, the safety lockout lever is out of the way once shifted to forward, so the handle does turn all the way.

              July 27, 2016 at 12:48 am #41006
              wedgie
              Participant

                Maybe running too rich ? screw the high speed carb needle clockwise a bit and see if the rpm’s rise

                EDIT:
                oh sorry ,just re read and i see you have tried adjusting the needles.

                July 27, 2016 at 1:02 pm #41036
                fleetwin
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Did the engine ever run OK at high speeds after working on the carb? Perhaps the carb nozzle gasket is missing/damaged which allows fuel to bypass the high speed circuit and run way to rich at high speeds.
                  Do the simple things first though. I know you just got through going through that ignition system, but that does not guarantee it is working properly. Try using those inline neon spark testers, then run the engine when the sun goes down to monitor ignition while the engine is acting up.
                  But, I guess I am putting the cart before the horse here, how about the spark plugs? Just cuz they might be new, does not mean they are any good.

                  July 27, 2016 at 2:07 pm #41039
                  frankr
                  Participant

                    If you have to go back into the magneto, loosen those wires at the points and push the condenser terminal down more toward horizontal. There is some danger of the wire rubbing on the flywheel. Likewise, where the ground wires exit the coils, push the wire toward the coil as far as you can because they sometimes rub on the flywheel hub.

                    July 27, 2016 at 2:10 pm #41040
                    frankr
                    Participant
                      quote Wedgie:

                      Are you sure both coils are good? They look ok, but I’ve had good looking bad coils. Also, hard to see, but looks like the condenser wire may have contacted the flywheel. Did the points get gaped properly? the one set looks a bit wide int the pic.

                      Also, is the safety lockout lever not letting you throttle up all the way, or does the handle turn all the way to fast but only goes to fast idle?

                      The cam is popped up because of the spring underneath. That could be throwing the points off. But all should be well with the flywheel back on and holding the cam down.

                      July 27, 2016 at 2:39 pm #41042
                      Mumbles
                      Participant

                        It seems you have changed everything which should be changed except for the spark plugs.

                        NGK B6S plugs set at 0.030" would be a good choice for replacements. ☺

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