Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 57 Johnson 7 1/2 Starts but won’t run
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JohnRude.
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April 16, 2023 at 10:50 pm #275216
My first 57 Johnson 7 1/2 purchased for parts. It just looked too good to part out. Put it in the tank and it started (after 30 yrs) on the third pull. She/he sounded ugly. And angry. But it died after 10 seconds. Pulled the flywheel. Coils were cracked and there was broken insulation everywhere. Points were burned beyond.
New carb kit done. Complete mag rebuild. Started on third pull. Sounded not bad but died after about 10 seconds. Choke doesn’t help. Won’t start until I pump the tank up. Same thing. Dies. I tried a different (rebuilt) tank. Same thing. Motor has 90 psi on each hole. For the 10 seconds it runs, it pumps water. WTF? Has anyone “run” into this? HELP!!
April 16, 2023 at 11:18 pm #275217does your fuel tank cap hissss if you pry it open just after dying ?? if not pfissssing lack of the air pressure in the tank is not pushing fuel back up the engine.
look for air leaks on the tank and hose crimps on the air side of the dual hose. if not leaking then the air pump flapper valve behind the carb may be defective.
crankcase pressure pulses must reach the tank
just as a test lift the tank above the engine after you pumped it….see if gravity willl feed fuel to the carb to keep it going .
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April 17, 2023 at 5:53 am #275219Obviously, you’re not a rookie, so you have the tank gas cap screwed down snug. My first guess is the rubber check valves behind the intake manifold, that allow tank pressure to build. I have seen some that deteriorate and don’t seal right. If you don’t build tank pressure, no gas gets sent back to the carb and the engine dies. The tank primer just sends enough fuel to fill up the carb again. It doesn’t pressurize the whole tank.
Long live American manufacturing!
April 17, 2023 at 8:44 am #275220Make sure you don’t have an air leak between the engine and fuel connector. That rubber hose could be bad and leaking air.
April 17, 2023 at 10:22 am #275225Good idea about gravity and an easy check. I tried two different tanks. One was recently rebuilt. Both worked on different motors last fall. By “flapper” behind the carb, do you mean the leaf plate reeds? Scary stuff for a novice.
April 17, 2023 at 10:30 am #275226Thanks. The next motor always makes me feel like a rookie. But yes the cap is snug. How do I get at those rubber check valves. Crosbyman mention rubber flapper valves too. Are these on the reed plate? The tank lines are new and the connectors have new O rings. Funny thing is after it starts the engine revs high then dies and the carb bowl is still full of fuel.
April 17, 2023 at 10:36 am #275227nothing scary… just pull the carb pull the back plate and behind (trying not to break the gaskets) are the flapper valves feeding the pressure pulses to the side nipple. see parts diagram
keep it simple first… check for air leaks with soapy water
btw did you clean the low speed cct and clean the high speed nozzle looks like the engine is starving
the ls side channel on those carbs has a tiny channle to the top…. blow with carb cleaner & air and check under the top dime size plug to see if the the small idle drip holes are clear.
if your model has a fuel filter remove it for a test run..
to suck fuel out of the carb air must also enter the carb to replace emulsified air/fuel sucked out… make certain any carb hole to balance carb air supply is not blocked.
Pretty certain I have a set in my old parts so if you find yours is defective send me PM.. I can probably send one in a regular mail envelope…free 🙂 after I find it
without paying parcel postage $$$$$ 🙂
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April 17, 2023 at 3:27 pm #275235I vote for a partially clogged sintered fuel filter in the glass bowl. Remove it for a test.
April 17, 2023 at 6:21 pm #275242deleted see next one…
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April 17, 2023 at 6:22 pm #275244see also small emulsifier holes (bleeder) in the HS throttle jet and FAT base gasket in the “fat gasket” diagram of bugs
btw the 7.5hp is easy to convert to pump if you feel the pressure system is a pain . IF you can get a pypass cover with the pump moldings you can just mount a square pump and plug the air nipple to the 2 line tank. change the side conector to single line.
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