Home Forum Ask A Member 57 Johnson 7 1/2 Starts but won’t run

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  • #275216
    JohnRude
    Participant

      Canada Member

      My first 57 Johnson 7 1/2 purchased for parts. It just looked too good to part out. Put it in the tank and it started (after 30 yrs) on the third pull. She/he sounded ugly. And angry. But it died after 10 seconds. Pulled the flywheel. Coils were cracked and there was broken insulation everywhere. Points were burned beyond.

      New carb kit done. Complete mag rebuild. Started on third pull. Sounded not bad but died after about 10 seconds. Choke doesn’t help. Won’t start until I pump the tank up. Same thing. Dies. I tried a different (rebuilt) tank. Same thing. Motor has 90 psi on each hole. For the 10 seconds it runs, it pumps water.  WTF? Has anyone “run” into this?  HELP!!

      #275217
      crosbyman
      Participant

        Canada Member

        does your fuel tank cap   hissss  if you pry it open just after dying ??        if not pfissssing     lack of  the air pressure in the tank  is not pushing fuel back up the engine.

        look for  air leaks on the tank and hose crimps on the  air side of the dual hose.      if not leaking then  the air pump flapper valve behind the  carb may be defective.

        crankcase pressure pulses must reach the tank

        just as a test lift the tank above the engine after you pumped it….see if gravity  willl feed fuel to the carb to keep it going .

        Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

        #275219
        billw
        Participant

          US Member

          Obviously, you’re not a rookie, so you have the tank gas cap screwed down snug. My first guess is the rubber check valves behind the intake manifold, that allow tank pressure to build. I have seen some that deteriorate and don’t seal right. If you don’t build tank pressure, no gas gets sent back to the carb and the engine dies. The tank primer just sends enough fuel to fill up the carb again. It doesn’t pressurize the whole tank.

          Long live American manufacturing!

          #275220
          Thomas Reinker
          Participant

            US Member

            Make sure you don’t have an air leak between the engine and fuel connector. That rubber hose could be bad and leaking air.

            #275225
            JohnRude
            Participant

              Canada Member

              Good idea about gravity and an easy check. I tried two different tanks. One was recently rebuilt. Both worked on different motors last fall. By “flapper” behind the carb, do you mean the leaf plate reeds? Scary stuff for a novice.

              #275226
              JohnRude
              Participant

                Canada Member

                Thanks. The next motor always makes me feel like a rookie. But yes the cap is snug. How do I get at those rubber check valves. Crosbyman mention rubber flapper valves too. Are these on the reed plate? The tank lines are new and the connectors have new O rings. Funny thing is after it starts the engine revs high then dies and the carb bowl is still full of fuel.

                 

                #275227
                crosbyman
                Participant

                  Canada Member

                  nothing scary…        just pull the carb    pull the back plate and behind (trying not to break the gaskets)     are the flapper valves feeding the pressure pulses to the side nipple. see parts diagram

                  keep it simple first… check for air leaks with soapy water

                  btw  did you  clean the low speed cct and      clean   the  high speed nozzle    looks like the engine is starving

                  the ls side channel on those carbs  has a tiny channle  to the top…. blow with carb cleaner & air    and  check under the  top dime size plug  to see if the the  small idle drip holes are clear.

                  if your model has a fuel  filter remove it for a test run..

                   

                  to suck fuel out of the carb air must  also enter the carb to replace emulsified  air/fuel sucked out… make certain any carb hole to balance  carb air supply is not blocked.

                   

                  Pretty certain I have a set  in my  old parts so if you find yours is  defective send me  PM.. I can probably send one in a regular mail envelope…free 🙂  after I find it

                  without paying parcel postage   $$$$$  🙂

                  Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                  #275235
                  frankr
                  Participant

                    US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                    I vote for a partially clogged sintered fuel filter in the glass bowl.  Remove it for a test.

                    #275242
                    crosbyman
                    Participant

                      Canada Member

                      deleted see next one…

                       

                      Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

                      #275244
                      crosbyman
                      Participant

                        Canada Member

                        see also  small emulsifier holes  (bleeder)  in the HS  throttle  jet and     FAT  base gasket   in the  “fat gasket”   diagram of bugs

                        btw    the 7.5hp is easy to convert to pump if you feel the pressure system is a pain .  IF you can get a pypass cover  with the pump moldings  you can just mount a square pump and plug the air nipple to the 2 line tank.   change the side conector to single line.

                        Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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