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fleetwin.
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August 16, 2020 at 4:27 pm #211813
I’m workin’ on a 7 1/2 HP “Merc 75” for a neighbor. SN 4746815, which I think puts it in the late 1970s. I’ve got it running great at all speeds above idle, but as it idles down, one cylinder cuts out. I can vary the RPM and throttle position it cuts out at some with the low speed mixture screw, but one cylinder still cuts out if I set the throttle low enough for a nice trolling speeds. Increasing the throttle cuts that cylinder back in like turning on a switch.
I have new spark plugs (NGK surface gap). I’ve disassembled and cleaned the carb and its attached fuel pump. Everything in the carb and pump looked clean when I opened it up, but I sprayed carb cleaner through everything and made sure all passages were open anyway. I removed the brass screw over the low speed needle valve tip and cleaned well in there, and all passages appear to be open. When I get the smoothest, slowest, low speed with both cylinders running (but still not idling as low as it should go), then if I shut it off, it won’t start again until I back out the low speed mixture screw about 1/2 turn, and that makes the cylinder cut out at a slightly higher speed and idle is not as smooth. I’ve used my own gas tank that I know works with other Mercurys, as well as the tank that came wit it – no difference. No ethanol.
I have checked all the ignition wiring and replaced a couple wires that had insulation flaking off. I made sure no wire is shorting or going open as the throttle is moved through its entire range. I disconnected the wire from the stop switch to the ignition, as the switch was broken anyway,m so that’s out of the picture. I have a dark side factory shop manual covering 1975-1978 models, and found the only timing adjustment is done at WOT, and that adjustment is just an advance limit at WOT and does not affect timing at idle. The ground wire screw for the ignition module was slightly loose, but tightening it didn’t help.
What are your thoughts on this??
Thx,
DaveAugust 17, 2020 at 5:56 am #211871I guess I would start with a basic spark test with the throttle at known good running and problematic positions. That system should jump a 3/8″ open gap, all day long. If you find a discrepancy, swap the coils and see if the problem follows. Don’t forget a compression test, too, just to be sure both cylinders are bringing the same thing to the proverbial table. Then there are the surface gap plugs. Very prone to low speed fouling. There IS a conventional gap type for that engine, too; but I don’t recall the number. Then I would start thinking about going deep…a lower seal or reed not closing all the way. Let’s hope for a spark problem.
Long live American manufacturing!
August 17, 2020 at 3:37 pm #211890Yeah, doesn’t seem like a carb issue if it is actually dropping the same cylinder all the time…Carb issues are going to affect both cylinders. I don’t know much about Mercs but where is the fuel pump plumbed into the crankcase for its vacuum/pressure pulses? Perhaps the fuel pump diaphragm is leaking and fuel is being flooded into the offending cylinder….
Like Bill says, start with basics, hope it is ignition or fuel pump related….
PS Just because it sparks on both while cranking, doesn’t mean it is sparking under load. You might want to try those inline neon spark testers or a timing light to monitor spark while running…Speaking of basics, did you replace the plugs? Just because they are new, doesn’t mean they are any good. A quick test for a leaky fuel pump diaphragm is to pull the fuel hose and let the engine run out of fuel…If the second cylinder seems to kick in when most of the fuel is out of the engine, then perhaps this is a fuel pump issue. Just don’t get confused, because engine RPM usually picks it up a bit as the engine leans out while running out of fuel…August 17, 2020 at 5:02 pm #211898A fuel pump diaphragm is a good thought! Sorry it didn’t come to me! That being said, the diaphragm is part of the carb on those, so you may have seen a problem when you had it apart…
Long live American manufacturing!
August 17, 2020 at 5:28 pm #211900A fuel pump diaphragm is a good thought! Sorry it didn’t come to me! That being said, the diaphragm is part of the carb on those, so you may have seen a problem when you had it apart…
Bill, where does the fuel pump diaphragm get its pulses from? Is there an external pulse hose from the carb the one of the crankcases? Just trying to figure out how the combination fuel pump/carb works…D
August 17, 2020 at 8:53 pm #211921.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.
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This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by
Tubs.
August 17, 2020 at 9:16 pm #211926pump gets pulse from passage behind carb mount no hose.
August 18, 2020 at 5:20 am #211961pump gets pulse from passage behind carb mount no hose.
Yup. There is a hole right through the carb mounting gasket. It’s all cast. Now, which cylinder does it get a pulse from? I never stopped to think about that so I don’t know….
Long live American manufacturing!
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This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by
billw.
August 18, 2020 at 9:25 am #211972Thanks guys for the suggestions. It just came back to my memory that when I changed the spark plugs, one plug had rust around the edge of the inside surface. This got me to thinking maybe there is a blown head gasket letting a bit of water in, so today, first thing I’m going to check is compression. Next will be for 3/8 inch spark. When I changed plugs, I looked for spark in the surface gap with the plugs removed and it looked healthy, but that’s a short jump with no compression. Stay Tuned…..
DaveAugust 18, 2020 at 11:34 am #211989no head gasket. may be the lower crank seal.
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