70hp idling characteristics?

[fleetwin]

I would NOT use the brass elbow from hardware store, mixed metals could cause corrosion…I would skip the cooling tap elbow update for now, but you can just eliminate the plastic restrictor to see if too much water pressure is causing the cold running…
Please be very careful when you do move the elbow, follow the direction exactly…Drilling too far, running the tap in too deep, might blast a hole through the cooling channel right into the exhaust! What a mess that would be….

[dan-in-tn]

I just thought of another part of the update kit. A water pump kit #432955 with 6 blade impeller and related parts. You get different vernitherm springs and instruction. Two elbows for the exhaust cover.
The tap to move the elbow location is 1/8" NPT. Pipe tap. Standard depth to tap is 2/3 of tap length. You should not have a problem hitting anything. 11/32" drill hole size.
If you take the vernitherm out and then drop it back in the cover you can tell if it seats. If it wobbles around then needs to be filed just a bit. You can pull the pin and file the square end down until it seats in the cover. The engine should warm up to 125. That’s about as good as you will see.
It is hard to tell cylinder condition on loopers (2 & 3 cylinders) in particular with compression checks. Just a few pds. can indicate scoring. I would pull the head before going too far with your trouble-shooting. Could save a bunch of headaches. When you see the idle screw turned all the way in on a 2 or 3 cylinder looper, beware? Most of the time the head gasket can be saved, gasket sealed, and put bad on if things are OK. Just my experience!

Dan in TN

[chinewalker]

Just a quick question – is the thermostat in place? I had a 1991 70 that I rebuild a couple years ago. The stat had been removed at some point. Motor would NOT idle at all, sneezing, etc., like you’d just started it, even after it had been run awhile. I installed the kit, with updates, and it idled perfectly.

Also, regarding the motor depth, any chance the ol’ Whaler is a bit waterlogged?

[jerry-ahrens]

The water pump kit Dan mentioned is the best way to go. It will update the T Stat, springs and the housing if it needs it. I’ve done a bunch of these. Another reason to get an OEM kit, cause Sierra kits do not come with the T Stat update parts.

[PugetSoundBoater]

i had read in the Boston Whaler forum about waterlog issues. The way to check it out is to find the factory dry weight and take it to a scale . Of course you need to weigh the trailer separately to deduct from the boat/ trailer pkg to come up with the actual boat weight.
I really like Whalers,would like one someday,so i’m not speaking negatively about them, just relaying what i read.EDIT for clarification

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[johnyrude200]

Ill try the t-stat stuff and the rest of the recommendations in the near future and report back. I dont think the boat is water logged. It has been out of the water for at least a year and we are in a severe drought here, and no winter this past season (literally 1 minor storm).

Boat has had some work done on it over the last year and no signs of floor ripples/heaving.

[chinewalker]

Once a Whaler is waterlogged, it stays that way. The ONLY way to dry them out is to remove the skin and dig out the waterlogged foam.

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