Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 9.5 hp 1966 mdl 9622a lower gearcase
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seakaye12.
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December 5, 2016 at 2:20 pm #48586
tlc and grease should be enough ….
this engine sits real low behind the boat and water likely reaches the innards close to the powerhead… when backing up to fast or on heavy windy days
I am certain regular maintenance will handle any rusting splines but the regular joes don’t bother and just store the motor
the amount of mono on the prop tell me the previous owner was a regular joe
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December 6, 2016 at 7:34 pm #48658quote Fisherman6:You do not need to remove both screws. Only the bottom one. It’s just that it needs to be removed completely. It sounds like you have already done that. Not sure why it is still stuck. Could be rusted drive shaft splines. It.could also be the water tube grommets stuck on the tube. I have had those get stuck pretty good to the point of pulling one of the grommets out of its seat and having it still stuck to the water tube.
-Benwell I took out the lower squeeze bolt on the shift rod " link" just above the water pump and that did it… it (gear case) came sliding down no problem
Amazing because that squeeze bolt was… .almost out and yet the shift rod would not let go of it
everything else looks ok except the drive shaft rubber grommet above the pump … needs a new one and…. a new impeller
thanks
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December 7, 2016 at 1:10 am #48686Always change the o ring at the top of the drive shaft, and grease the splines. EVERY time.
December 7, 2016 at 1:34 pm #48751quote crosbyman:quote Fisherman6:You do not need to remove both screws. Only the bottom one. It’s just that it needs to be removed completely. It sounds like you have already done that. Not sure why it is still stuck. Could be rusted drive shaft splines. It.could also be the water tube grommets stuck on the tube. I have had those get stuck pretty good to the point of pulling one of the grommets out of its seat and having it still stuck to the water tube.
-Benwell I took out the lower squeeze bolt on the shift rod ” link” just above the water pump and that did it… it (gear case) came sliding down no problem
Amazing because that squeeze bolt was… .almost out and yet the shift rod would not let go of it
everything else looks ok except the drive shaft rubber grommet above the pump … needs a new one and…. a new impeller
thanks
You’re welcome. I’m glad to hear you got it to drop down. That pinch bolt passes thru a notch in the shift rod so it’s retained even if the bolt becomes loose enough that friction doesn’t hold it. Be extra careful when you replace the lower unit that the notch in the shift rod is lined up as perfectly as possible with the pinch bolt hole. If it is misaligned, the threads on the pinch bolt can get damaged when the bolt is replaced. That will in turn damage the threads in the clamp and ruin it. Not difficult, just something to pay attention to so things don’t get damaged accidentally. 😉
Chris P’s advice here is very sound as well. While important to replace the O ring amd grease the drive shaft splines on all motors that have them, it is extra important with these motors since they sit so close to the water.
-BenOldJohnnyRude on YouTube
December 7, 2016 at 7:05 pm #48783December 8, 2016 at 12:14 am #48820I will guarantee the bolt that would not let the the lower unit drop now has damaged threads. Replace it! If the threads in the brass connector get stripped, it may be saved if the other hole is OK. You can remove it (carefully) and flip it end for end. Use a longer bolt & self locking nut in the stripped out hole to permanently attach it to the upper shift rod and use the the good lower end for assembly and disassembly. I LOVE the nail polish idea. I have been using a flashlight with a mini-bulb on the end of a goose neck to light up the hole. The shifted and connector MUST be precisely aligned or you will wipe out the streads. . . 🙂

December 8, 2016 at 12:20 am #48821will do the fingernail paint … good idea and nothing has been damaged or stripped bolt of link wise
Another question….
the fat rubber grommet that sits on top of the impeller housing and which mates with the "tube" going up the driveshaft cavity …is that grommet suppose to be acting as a true water seal because mine’s inside diameter is about 1.5 times the size of the drive shaft itself
which presumably would let pressured water to squirt up the tube. is this normal for "cooling" the housing or should that grommet inside diameter be equal to the outside diameter of the drive shaft ??Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂
December 8, 2016 at 1:14 am #48824The 0303067 driveshaft "O" ring should fit snugly in the slot below the splines. The driveshaft is stainless steel and will not rust. The crankshaft however is case hardened high carbon chrome nickel steel and will. The grease is to keep out water. To little grease and the crankshaft will rust to the drive shaft. To much will form a lock which will keep the shaft from being completely inserted. . . 😉

December 8, 2016 at 5:06 am #48842quote Garry in Tampa:The 0303067 driveshaft "O" ring should fit snugly in the slot below the splines. The driveshaft is stainless steel and will not rust. The crankshaft however is case hardened high carbon chrome nickel steel and will. The grease is to keep out water. To little grease and the crankshaft will rust to the drive shaft. To much will form a lock which will keep the shaft from being completely inserted. . . 😉

I don’t think were are talking the same issue…
0309067 is a rubber seal (part #6) ABOVE (on top of) the waterpump not the O ring #030367 in the groove below the splines at the top of the drive shaft
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December 8, 2016 at 4:17 pm #48857The water tube should fit snugly in the grommet.
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