Adding fluid and bleeding trim pump

[wiscoboater]

Hi Guys,
Have a couple questions about a trim pump for a 1979 100hp Evinrude. I had to change out the motor due to it being bad/froze up. When removing the old motor and installing the new, a lot of fluid escaped from the system. I installed a new motor and Oring and got it all back together. About 1/2 a pint of fluid escaped during the swap so I know the system fluid level is low at this point.
Should the motor be tilted up on the lock when adding fluid, or in the down position?
Because I technically "opened" the system when swapping motors, do I need to bleed the air out of the system now?
If I do need to bleed, what is the proper procedure for doing so?
First time messing with a T&T system so not sure where I’m at with it.

Update on the Strangler coming soon!

wannabe

[chris-p]

You fill in the fully UP position. Cycle 5 to 6 times, bleeding the air, back to the UP, and top up again, cycle 5 to 6 times. After doing that a few times, should be full, and bled off of any air.

[jeff-register]

Any single acting hydraulic system extend the ram, then fill. Otherwise when the cylinder retracts with a single acting system it has no place to store fluid once the cylinder has compressed. With a double acting cylinder as one side is compressed, the other side of the ram fills. This system is totally different. It just swaps fluid from one side to the other not changing the reservior level, but the single acting system pumps fluid in & the weight of the motor pushes the fluid out of the cylinder so no pump is required to lower the motor, just a spool valve opens by electrical coil. Also give it a chance for all air bubbles to return to reservior. I am not familure with your cylinder port but I bet it’s on the top so it will evacuate the bubbles easier. Not sure but should leak fluid with the pump motor removed? It may dump fluid into the electric motor, depends where the shaft seal is placed. Seen that before! Good luck

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