Anzani Pilot Water Tube

[Tom]

I’m having trouble removing the foot from an Anzani Pilot. As is usually the case, the water tube is stuck in the pump housing. I got the foot to come down some, but it stopped just as the driveshaft disengaged from the powerhead. The tube has not moved out of the pump housing at all.

Is there a break in the water supply tube inside the leg? Or is the water tube one solid piece from the pump housing, up through the leg, and up to the powerhead?

I don’t think twisting and penetrating oil is going to work on this one. If I have to cut the tubing inside the leg and reassemble with a piece of rubber hose, I can do that.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Tom Manley

[ausf233]

quote Tom Manley:

Is there a break in the water supply tube inside the leg? Or is the water tube one solid piece from the pump housing, up through the leg, and up to the powerhead?

I don’t think twisting and penetrating oil is going to work on this one. If I have to cut the tubing inside the leg and reassemble with a piece of rubber hose, I can do that.

Tom Manley

Hi Tom,

Unfortunately there is no break in the water supply tube inside the mid-section/exhaust housing. What I suggest you try if you haven’t done so already, is to apply some heat around the area where the tube enters the water pump housing and continue the twist and pull motion. Needless to say, you should remove the impellor from the pump housing first so as not to melt it.

It’s been a few years since I played with my pilot so I don’t remember all the ins and outs, but you’re welcome to access my photobucket here http://s192.photobucket.com/user/HH565L/library/Anzani?sort=3&page=1 in case there are any photos that may be helpful.

If access is denied there, just shoot me a pm and I’ll search out any photos that may be useful and post them here.

Regards,
Spiro

[Tom]

Spiro,

Thank you for the response. We ended up cutting the water tube above the anti-cavitation plate, after trying heat and penetrating oil. Once we got the lower unit off, we realized that there was no way the tube was coming out with twisting, heating, or penetrating oil. I had to use a tube flaring clamp to hold the stub of the tube, and even with that it took heat, oil, and 15 minutes of twisting back and forth a degree or so at a time to get the stub out. To replace the tube, I fluxed some copper tubing, tinned it with solder, and wiped it with a leather glove. This reproduced the original finish quite well. There will be a short piece of hose up inside the leg to join the original tube to the new piece in the foot.

The supply tube was clear, as was the cylinder head. The return tube was filled with grit, and it took a while to clear that one.

The motor fires well, we expect it will be a pretty nice running motor.

Tom

[ausf233]

Good work Tom,

I like the idea of tinning with solder and may use that in future.

As you probably already know, the other potential problem area with the Pilot is removal of the exhaust tube from what is essentially the mid section. Problems arise here because the screws that secure the exhaust tube to the mid section have been over-tightened. This causes a small flare in the mid-section, but just large enough to prevent the exhaust tube from sliding off easily. The solution is to loosen the screws and whilst still in place, tap on them gently with a small hammer to reduce or eliminate the flare caused by initial over-tightening of the screws. The exhaust tube should then slide off fairly easily.

Would love to see pics of you Pilot when completed.

Regards,
Spiro

[Tom]

It’s a friend’s motor, he may not do a complete restoration. He’s got a Minor, too, that runs very well. The Pilot is the latest model, black tank, white leg, and the decal isn’t the wing style. We’ll try to have a video of it when it’s running.

Tom

[Author]

Posts