Boat Restoration Question

[greg]

I’m sorry to have to ask this question as it is not related to outboards directly, but I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good wood filler/seam compound for filling fastener holes, some gouges both above and below the waterline, and small seam gaps where the bottom of the hull meets the sides. The boat is a 1957 Skee Craft with a marine plywood hull. I tried to get some answers on some other wood boat forums, but I was really disappointed with the lack of responses I got. 1 person responded and told me I needed to upload pictures before anyone would answer. Again, I’m sorry for the question but I have followed this forum for over 10 years and its by far the friendliest and most helpful forum on the Internet

Thanks
Greg

[jpatti75]

Greg,

I can’t speak to using it on a wooden boat, however, I have used 3M’s Marine Sealant 5200 for sealing fastener holes below the waterline, and it is a fantastic product. It will expand a bit as it cures to ensure a tight seal and has an almost rubber like (flexible) consistency. It comes in white and is advertised for wood and Fiberglass applications (I’ve also used it with aluminum and have had no issues). Unless you are looking for something clear vice white, I would definitely consider the product.

Hope that helps!
JP

[joecb]

I would say that for filling and leveling surface defects in wood, good old Bondo works very well. It is sold at the marine supply houses for just that application. As for joints, that may be a little difficult to answer, a lot depends on how much flexing the joint experiences, some of the rubber adhesive compounds by 3M or Boat-Life may work. Check out "Jamestown Distributors" and look under fairing compounds and/ or adhesives. They have a full line of "stuff" with good product descriptions for each item.

Joe B

[Casey Lynn]

I had a friend of mine do some work on one of my wood boats. He filled some holes I had in the deck with wooden plugs, glued in. Touched them up with a mahogany stain color ( I think ) and varnished over. Looks great.
For sealing below the waterline 3M 4200 or 5200 is fantastic. Hard as Hell to remove but good at what it is used for. The 4200 may be more suited to your needs. Read up on them and decide.

[PugetSoundBoater]

I also agree with the 5200. Unfortunatly it is white and will show the repair.
What you might try on scraps of wood as a test, recreate a void of a seam like you will repair on the boat. Fill the void with 5200 ,let set a 1/2 hour or more till tacky,them apply a heavy coating of fine sawdust and waterproof glue over the 5200 that will be able to be sanded and finished. This may hide the repairs a bit,maybe quite well. Be sure to wear gloves when working with 5200. Sticks to everything! Have acetone on hand for cleanup

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

[stanley]

For filling fastener holes I use a clear epoxy with saw dust mixed in.The saw dust makes it easier for the replacement fastener to thread.Use the same species of wood for a color match.You can also use Resorcinol glue the same way.On anything cosmetic and above the water line,any non water-based wood filler will work.The finish over it is what matters.On really big fastener holes plugs are the way to go.

[jerry-ahrens]

One thing to remember on the 3M 5200, it is superior for below the waterline repairs, but it takes 24 hrs or more to cure. 3M also makes 5200 Fast Cure that dries much faster vs. the regular 5200. However the regular 5200 has a stronger bonding ability than the Fast Cure version. There is also a black version of the 5200, although I haven’t seen it in awhile.

[wiscoboater]

It really depends on how you are going to finish the boat. If the repaired areas are going to be painted, the 5200 would be best for ease of use. If the boat is going to be clear finished so the wood is visible, you would want to use a clear epoxy mixed with matching wood flour or dust to help "blend" in the repair for the least visibility. I have a small Mahogany run about I built from scratch using Mahogany ply wood and dimensional lumber. I would save the fine dust created by my table saw in a baggie and use it to make epoxy paste to fill the screw and staple holes. On the seams, if this area is going to flex when pounding against waves you may want to use the paste and reinforce the seam with a 4oz. fiberglass deck cloth to reinforce the repair. When wetted out with epoxy, the cloth becomes invisible. 4oz. cloth can be purchased from Glen L. Just search Glen L boats and you will find the site.
There are 2 other wood boat builders on this site. Both moderator Travis and member GDcarpenter have built wooden Glen L boats as well and could also offer some tips for your restoration. Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions about your wood boat. I have built a few over the years and would be more then happy to be of assistance to you.

Jeff Kmiecik

[george-emmanuel]

As I see it you have 2 different situations: Above and below the waterline. I know why one person asked for pictures,—it’s the only way to really observe what is needed in a particular situation.

Areas that are seams below the water line that will be painted over can be filled with either epoxy with added fillers, or 5200. Using either I would suggest carving out the seam a bit to get a good layer into the groove and also to get a better bond with cleaner wood. If you use epoxy you must wet the surface first with epoxy before applying epoxy that has filler added, otherwise you will not get a good bond. If the surface is one that you need to have a really smooth surface, I’d use epoxy because 5200 stays pliable and will not sand smooth.

On above water seams and gouges, again it depends on structure. To fill a seam, first decide if the seam is going to have any movement. If it is going to have movement, do not use epoxy because it cures hard. I’d use 5200. If it is a gouge you can use epoxy or Famowood. Famowood is used by boatbuilders when the surface is going to be varnished. Famowood accepts stain and is available in colors.

You can e-mail me if you’d like. Send me a PM and I’ll send you my address or you can find me in the directory under the officers.

George

[richardg]

I am always interested in how the fasteners are on the bottom and also what kind of water the boat will be used on. One restoration book suggested that the bottoms will only be 1/3 to 1/4 as strong as original and should not be beat badly in rough water.

I am not a purist and instead repair working wood boats back to serviceable condition. I use epoxy fillets often inside the hull after refastening. I also like epoxy/fiberglass below the water line and paint the bottom.

I like keeping the boats indoors over the winter months. All your hard bright work will last a long, long time with minimal maintenance.

The ones that are painted top sides seem to hold up better than the varnished ones if they will be left backing in the summer Sun.

After a season it is easy to see which side of a varnished boat is exposed to the afternoon Sun.

[Author]

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