Home Forum Ask A Member CD12 strange cooling issue

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  • #297794
    crosbyman
    Participant

      Canada Member

      see post 297615…

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      #298001
      Fastwin18
      Participant

        Today, unexpectedly, the ordered gaskets arrived! The new base gasket was 100% identical to the old one, that rules out that gasket.
        I’ve replaced the exhaust cover, cylinder head and base gaskets. While doing that I inspected and cleaned all the water passages.
        With the lower unit off (and the powerhead on), I connected a garden hose to the water tube. Although the garden hose inner diameter was considerably larger than the outer diameter of the water tube and a lot of water got past the water tube, water seemed to flow pretty good to the powerhead.
        Then took it apart again, reinstalled the lower unit and power head  and….. suspense …….
        Still the same problem 🙁
        So that only leaves the water pump I guess. I’ll give that a closer look tomorrow.

        #298021
        fleetwin
        Participant

          US Member

          So water flowed through the powerhead when you attached the leaky garden hose?  At this point, I would go a little deeper into this troubleshooint technique.  First, I would make up some sort of adapters to minimize the leak between the garden hose and water tube.  Then, I would turn on the hose just slightly to get water flowing through the powerhead.  Next, I would start the engine to see if water continues to flow through it while running.  Exhaust leaks into the cooling system can create enough back pressure to slow/stop water flow.  Again, don’t over pressurize with the garden hose!

          Back to the gearcase.   Have you had a close look at the water tube?  Are you sure the water tube is seating properly into the impeller housing grommet?  If previously misinstalled, the water tube could be bent and not seating into the impeller housing grommet.  Next, I would remove the impeller housing and SS plate.  A proper seal between the SS plate and the gearcase casting is very important.  The aluminum could be damaged, eroded, not making a good seal.  If there is a leak in this area, the water pump will pull exhaust/air instead of water.   Have you pulled off the SS side inlet cover?  Perhaps there is crud down inside the water pick up area blocking water flow into the pump.  Is the water pick up screen crusted over?

          #298023
          crosbyman
          Participant

            Canada Member

            see  bulletin on  water pump and overheating … side plate should be removed for bucket testing

             

            ref :   Max E Wawrzyniak   “CHEAP OUTBOARDS”

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            #298030
            fleetwin
            Participant

              US Member

              Well, that bulletin references running in a test tank with a test wheel.   But, it can’t hurt to give it a try.

              #298031
              crosbyman
              Participant

                Canada Member

                openning up the side plate  and running neutral  should allow water to flood the impeller intake whereas bucket  testing with a blade  churning up air and water doesn’t make  for a good water cooling supply.  hopefully  a simple run in neutral & plate open should  help to determine if  lake testing would  have been a better option.

                 

                OP did not indicate if  normal open water running helps to cool it down.

                see parag.3  in this old post from 20111..talks about  water inlet blockage in the PH

                https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1954-cd-11-restoration.506115/

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                #298032
                fleetwin
                Participant

                  US Member

                  Read that paragraph but couldn’t make much sense out of it.   It is surely worth taking a few moments to remove that side cover, unless the screws are rusted in place.

                  This thread has gotten long, probably some confusion.   From what I have read, when running, there is zero water flow from the exhaust outlet.  Test tank turbulence/air/exhaust should always been considered when dealing with cooling issues.  But, there should have been some water flow out of the engine when running in neutral in the tank.  Unless the water level in the tank was/is too low, sure hope this isn’t an issue.

                  I fear that this issue is something simple that we have overlooked, or there has been a breakdown in online written communication.

                  #298034
                  mic57
                  Participant

                    When you revisit the water pump make sure that the small hole in the pump housing near the driveshaft is clear. If this passage is clogged the pump will not operate effectively.

                    water-pump

                    #298036
                    crosbyman
                    Participant

                      Canada Member

                      agree.  drill test on drive shaft  seems to pump tons of water  so LU side should be ok.

                      Time to pull welsh plugs  and fish out any crud  if nothing else works… but before pulling the plugs….. try a desalting solution to fill all  cooling zones  with  the PH upside down for  a day or 2  .  30% warm vinegar should help or a commercial product .

                      a small endoscope probe  could shed some light 🙂 on the problem

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                      #298037
                      fleetwin
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        When you revisit the water pump make sure that the small hole in the pump housing near the driveshaft is clear. If this passage is clogged the pump will not operate effectively.

                        water-pump

                        Excellent advice!!

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