Home › Forum › Ask A Member › CD12 strange cooling issue
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Mumbles.
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July 1, 2025 at 7:19 am #297794
see post 297615…
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July 7, 2025 at 2:09 pm #298001Today, unexpectedly, the ordered gaskets arrived! The new base gasket was 100% identical to the old one, that rules out that gasket.
I’ve replaced the exhaust cover, cylinder head and base gaskets. While doing that I inspected and cleaned all the water passages.
With the lower unit off (and the powerhead on), I connected a garden hose to the water tube. Although the garden hose inner diameter was considerably larger than the outer diameter of the water tube and a lot of water got past the water tube, water seemed to flow pretty good to the powerhead.
Then took it apart again, reinstalled the lower unit and power head and….. suspense …….
Still the same problem 🙁
So that only leaves the water pump I guess. I’ll give that a closer look tomorrow.July 8, 2025 at 7:12 am #298021So water flowed through the powerhead when you attached the leaky garden hose? At this point, I would go a little deeper into this troubleshooint technique. First, I would make up some sort of adapters to minimize the leak between the garden hose and water tube. Then, I would turn on the hose just slightly to get water flowing through the powerhead. Next, I would start the engine to see if water continues to flow through it while running. Exhaust leaks into the cooling system can create enough back pressure to slow/stop water flow. Again, don’t over pressurize with the garden hose!
Back to the gearcase. Have you had a close look at the water tube? Are you sure the water tube is seating properly into the impeller housing grommet? If previously misinstalled, the water tube could be bent and not seating into the impeller housing grommet. Next, I would remove the impeller housing and SS plate. A proper seal between the SS plate and the gearcase casting is very important. The aluminum could be damaged, eroded, not making a good seal. If there is a leak in this area, the water pump will pull exhaust/air instead of water. Have you pulled off the SS side inlet cover? Perhaps there is crud down inside the water pick up area blocking water flow into the pump. Is the water pick up screen crusted over?
July 8, 2025 at 9:35 am #298023see bulletin on water pump and overheating … side plate should be removed for bucket testing
ref : Max E Wawrzyniak “CHEAP OUTBOARDS”
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July 8, 2025 at 9:45 pm #298030Well, that bulletin references running in a test tank with a test wheel. But, it can’t hurt to give it a try.
July 8, 2025 at 11:35 pm #298031openning up the side plate and running neutral should allow water to flood the impeller intake whereas bucket testing with a blade churning up air and water doesn’t make for a good water cooling supply. hopefully a simple run in neutral & plate open should help to determine if lake testing would have been a better option.
OP did not indicate if normal open water running helps to cool it down.
see parag.3 in this old post from 20111..talks about water inlet blockage in the PH
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1954-cd-11-restoration.506115/
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July 9, 2025 at 8:06 am #298032Read that paragraph but couldn’t make much sense out of it. It is surely worth taking a few moments to remove that side cover, unless the screws are rusted in place.
This thread has gotten long, probably some confusion. From what I have read, when running, there is zero water flow from the exhaust outlet. Test tank turbulence/air/exhaust should always been considered when dealing with cooling issues. But, there should have been some water flow out of the engine when running in neutral in the tank. Unless the water level in the tank was/is too low, sure hope this isn’t an issue.
I fear that this issue is something simple that we have overlooked, or there has been a breakdown in online written communication.
July 9, 2025 at 11:05 am #298034July 9, 2025 at 11:06 am #298036agree. drill test on drive shaft seems to pump tons of water so LU side should be ok.
Time to pull welsh plugs and fish out any crud if nothing else works… but before pulling the plugs….. try a desalting solution to fill all cooling zones with the PH upside down for a day or 2 . 30% warm vinegar should help or a commercial product .
a small endoscope probe could shed some light 🙂 on the problem
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July 9, 2025 at 11:31 am #298037When you revisit the water pump make sure that the small hole in the pump housing near the driveshaft is clear. If this passage is clogged the pump will not operate effectively.
Excellent advice!!
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