Home Forum Ask A Member Coil + Condenser Pairing ???

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  • #281934
    BenKruse
    Participant

      Team,

      Just bought a Merc O Tronic 98 in an attempt to get better with electrical diagnosis. This thing should show me coil health and, condenser health. In my restorations however, I usually have to convert to new coils and, new condensers. Question is, how do I appropriately size a condenser to a coil? Is there a math equation I should learn? Is it a trial and error thing? Is there a tried and true condenser I could use for everything less than 5hp? I think one of the issues I’m having is a spark shortcoming as a result of mismatched components. Any help here is appreciated. Currently this is all a mystery.

      #281936
      Buccaneer
      Participant

        US Member

        Team,

        Just bought a Merc O Tronic 98 in an attempt to get better with electrical diagnosis. This thing should show me coil health and, condenser health. In my restorations however, I usually have to convert to new coils and, new condensers. Question is, how do I appropriately size a condenser to a coil? Is there a math equation I should learn? Is it a trial and error thing? Is there a tried and true condenser I could use for everything less than 5hp? I think one of the issues I’m having is a spark shortcoming as a result of mismatched components. Any help here is appreciated. Currently this is all a mystery.

        I have pondered, but never have heard an answer to your question of
        coil to condenser “match”. Best to just keep it as “simple” as possible.
        If you’re using OMC Universal coils in your swaps, jut use the condensers
        with the correct MFD’s intended for those coils.
        There are charts someone put together with many examples showing
        “what” outboards used “what” condenser mfd ratings.
        Do you have those?

        Prepare to be boarded!

        1 user thanked author for this post.
        #281938
        BenKruse
        Participant

          Those charts would be awesome. I do not have them. That might be the piece I’m missing. I’m also noticing that aftermarket condensers list their part numbers but, they rarely list their uF values..

          #281943
          Buccaneer
          Participant

            US Member

            Eary-Johnson-Condenser-MFD-ratings
            Evinrude-Condenser-Data
            Johnson-Condenser-data
            Mercury-Condenser-Data

            Prepare to be boarded!

            1 user thanked author for this post.
            #281948
            Buccaneer
            Participant

              US Member

              Condenser-Cross-Reference

              Prepare to be boarded!

              #281951
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member

                Hmmm.  One of the issues is that resistance and other values change when particular parts are updated/superceded.  In other words, the primary/secondary resistance/power settings have changed from the original coils/condensers used on the “universal mag” versus the latest OEM replacements.  So, it can be tough to know the correct test procedures/values even though you have the part number.  The only way to really know is to  scour service manuals until you find the test procedures related to the part number you have..  One other method might be to have a “known good” piece with the same part number so readings can be compared.

                Right now (at least to the best of my knowledge), all universal mag coils have been superceded to the same part number.  There are two different condensers used based on the horsepower of your engine.  So, I’m thinking the condenser is not just “matched to the coil”, but also matched to the particular engine’s spark requirements.

                All of this doesn’t even touch on aftermarket replacement pieces, you would have to contact the manufacturer to get those specs.  Perhaps mercotronic has a listing for aftermarket pieces.  Again, the best tool in this situation is a “known good” piece of the same part number.

                #281952
                stanley
                Participant

                  US Member

                  One other bit of information I believe I read in an “Outboarder” article is that you can safely use condensers of significantly higher mfd. than specified.Problems start to occur when condenser values are lower than spec.

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                  #281961
                  crosbyman
                  Participant

                    Canada Member

                    MR.Mohat pubished several articles on condensers  and all the info is on the western region aomci site.   as it turns out .22uf is pretty much   the  universal value

                    see articles and  decide           to big saves the points and drops the spark        to small gets you a big spark  and burns the points …..

                    Microsoft Word – Part1_Condenser_Construction_Failure_Modes.doc (wrcoutboards.org)

                    https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part2_Condenser_Testers_And_Testing_Correctly.pdf

                    https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part3_Sizing_Condensers_Correctly.pdf

                    https://wrcoutboards.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Part4_Repairing_Broken_Condensers.pdf

                     

                     

                    mr. Mohat conclusion  in article 3

                     

                    I believe we can make the following generalizations and recommendations:

                    Motors, 1900s – (MASSIVE steel magnets, 2 pole / 2 pole construction, absolutely HUGE spark
                    coils)….use a .68 to 1.0uF condenser. Error on going too large, to protect the insulation in your
                    antique spark coil if possible…as long as your motor can be started easily.

                    Motors 1910s through 1920s (STEEL MAGNETS, 2 pole / 2 pole construction, very large spark
                    coil)….use a .47uF to .68uF condenser. Again, error on going larger than this, as long as you
                    can start the motor easily!

                    Motors 1930s and 1940s (Steel Magnets, typically 2 pole / 3 pole construction, “medium” size
                    spark coils)….use a .3 to .47uF condenser.

                    Motors 1930s and 1940s, (Alnico Magnets, 2 pole / 3 pole construction, smaller size spark
                    coils)….use a .22 to .47uF condenser.

                    Motors 1950s and newer (all)….just use a .22uF. It REALLY isn’t at all critical, apparently!
                    Also note that almost all 12V “Battery and Points” ignition systems seem to use something close
                    to 0.22uF as well, so this is sort of your ‘universal replacement’ value.

                     

                     

                     

                     

                    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

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                    #281962
                    frankr
                    Participant

                      US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

                      Ben at the risk of oversimplification, may I suggest looking at the subject in a layman’s manner?  Think of electricity as “stuff”.  Actually electrons, those little pieces of stuff that whiz around an atom as planets whiz around the sun.  Think of a condenser as a closed can with a wire leading into the can.  Magnets passing by a coil of wire drag those electrons out of their atoms, shove them through a circuit and back to the other end of the coil when the point are closed.  When the points suddenly open, the electrons want to keep moving for a short bit of time.  They will try to jump the gap across the points, making an arc which burns the points.  A condenser gives them a place to go instead, that place being the “can”.  They are crammed into the “can” by whatever pressure is driving them.  That pressure is what we call “Voltage”.

                      Now, comes the matter of “capacity”.  The capacity of a condenser determines how many electrons can be crammed into it at a given voltage.  It fills up with electrons till the voltage inside the can equals the pressure pushing them in.  This takes time.  Too big a can takes too long to fill, and the voltage doesn’t rise enough.  Too small a can and it won’t hold all the available electrons.  Add to all this, a leaking condenser spills some of the electrons out to ground.  Why does all this matter anyway?  Because at this critical point in time when the points open, the polarity of the coil changes and the stored electrons flow back out of the can, in series with the changed voltage in the coil.  This adds to the spark obtained in the secondary winding of the coil.

                      Bottom line is, there is no magic number for the capacity of the condenser.  A lot depends on the strength of the magnets dragging the electrons, the size and magnetic properties of the coil, the RPM or speed at which the magnets pass by the coil, etc, etc.  In other words, the electrical engineers that designed the system arrived at a best value for the system under all or average conditions.

                      And that’s what it is, the “average”.  Notice there isn’t much difference between the smallest and larges capacities listed.

                      1 user thanked author for this post.
                      #281975
                      BenKruse
                      Participant

                        Thanks,

                        You’ve responded to a couple of my posts here. I appreciate the help. I replaced a coil in a Handitwin with a replacement from Ebay (Big Rich). When talking with you in the past you said you’ve paired this coil with a .22 uF condenser from Brillman. I just tested my combo and, my condenser tests at .1 uF. I think my condenser is undersized… Cylinder pressures in the 50s.. Runs but sometimes starts running rough. Plug is often wet in one cylinder when I pull it. I’m thinking the undersized condenser doesn’t always fire the second cylinder (wet plug)… If that’s the case, know of any new condenser that’s the go-to for .22 uF.? Thanks again.

                         

                        Ben

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