Home Forum Ask A Member control box wiring question

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  • #4408
    johnyrude200
    Participant

      I have a customer who has requested a motor mounted key switch and kill lanyard set up. So basically I’ve transplanted the wiring from a remote control box onto the front of a 30hp mid-80’s motor (red plug type). The only wire I’m having a hard time seeing where it goes on, from looking at the wiring diagram, is the purple lead that comes off the warning horn and back into the control box plug.

      On the diagram I’m seeing purple/white going to the choke/primer solenoid, then the purple/red going to the fuse (alternator lead off the motor). Not that the placement of the wires on the diagram are the ‘end all be all,’ but it looks as if it’s in line with the grey lead which is for accessory power normally on the control box (I omitted this on the engine side harness, is not connected).

      Does the purple lead from the horn tie into the grey lead off the engine harness?

      It should be noted that the red plug on the motor had been cut so I am doing bullet connectors running off the key switch. The leads off the key switch are coated with black neoprene dip and all the wires running off of each key switch terminal are neatly housed in flex tubing to avoid issues.

      #37465
      frankr
      Participant

        US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

        By tradition, grey is a tachometer lead. Nothing connects to it except tach. Other end of it goes to yellow/grey rectifier lead (AC signal)

        #37466
        frankr
        Participant

          US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

          You indicated you have the diagram. Like this????


          adult image

          #37469
          fleetwin
          Participant

            US Member

            Look at Frank’s diagram. The purple lead is switched B+. In other words, the purple lead is hot when the key switch is turned to on or start providing power for the hot horn or the accessory harness plug. The is no purple lead in the actual control box or engine wiring harness, it is just supplied off the "A" terminal of the key switch….

            #37471
            frankr
            Participant

              US MEMBER PAY BY CHECK

              Actually, a close look will show a purple lead in the control, running between the "A" terminal and the red plug. But it doesn’t come out the other side of the red plug. That is to make the control compatible with some other models that do use a purple wire at the engine side.

              #37482
              johnyrude200
              Participant

                Hi All,

                Yes that is the same diagram I was looking at. The purple lead off the horn goes to terminal A, then from A to the plug on the harness (control box side). Looking at the diagram I couldn’t figure out where that needed to go from the plug since on the other side of the plug in the diagram, you see grey and purple/white coming out.

                So what I am getting from your replies is that I don’t need to worry about that purple lead coming off of key switch terminal A…?

                Thanks again. Everything is working with the set up I put together, but not in the habit of leaving dangling wires!

                #37492
                dan-in-tn
                Participant

                  US Member

                  If you want a warning horn (overheat & self test upon key turned on) which is most advisable on the 32 cu. in. motors of the late 70s & 80s then you will need the purple to power the horn for switched battery like Don mentions. If you are going to have electric start you might as well have the overheat horn for signaling that possibility. IMHO

                  Dan in TN

                  #37493
                  johnyrude200
                  Participant

                    Hi Dan,

                    I found a good spot to install the warning horn under the cowel, and have a purple lead running from the horn to the key switch terminal A. The brown wire off the sensor is fed to the horn as well as per the wiring diagram. Just double checking where the purple wire goes from the key switch back to the wiring harness (in this case, there is no red plug with my set up just bullet connectors) to see where that should go, and apparently from everyone else’s comments, it is not necessary to have that lead to anything.

                    This motor was originally a 30hp remote control motor, now converted to tiller control with electric start and I simply installed the typical wiring set up from the control box on the control panel of the motor (as in, where the choke switch/kill button traditionally would reside). Kind of a sweet set up, might even do this on a personal motor someday. But it sure took some time to transplant everything!

                    Let me know if I’m missing something here!

                    #37495
                    dan-in-tn
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      You have to have the correct horn #585992. It has a black pigtail for an additional ground for the self test feature. Each time you turn on the key the horn will chirp/sound the horn. This lets you know it is operational. Just an added feature. Those horns have a short black pigtail about 1 1/4" with bullet connector on them. Sounds like the rest of what you have is fine.

                      Dan in TN

                      #37496
                      johnyrude200
                      Participant

                        That’s good info to know. The box I pulled the components out of was an older white box with a horn and integrated kill lanyard. I have some black control boxes missing key switches I can pull one of those newer horns out of. Again – thank you for sharing your knowledge!

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