control box wiring question

[fleetwin]

quote FrankR:

Actually, a close look will show a purple lead in the control, running between the "A" terminal and the red plug. But it doesn’t come out the other side of the red plug. That is to make the control compatible with some other models that do use a purple wire at the engine side.

You are soooo right Frank….I forgot about this cost cutting technique on the engine wiring harness. And yes, the purple lead does and is in the control box harness, sorry for the confusion….

[fleetwin]

quote johnyrude200:

Hi All,

Yes that is the same diagram I was looking at. The purple lead off the horn goes to terminal A, then from A to the plug on the harness (control box side). Looking at the diagram I couldn’t figure out where that needed to go from the plug since on the other side of the plug in the diagram, you see grey and purple/white coming out.

So what I am getting from your replies is that I don’t need to worry about that purple lead coming off of key switch terminal A…?

Thanks again. Everything is working with the set up I put together, but not in the habit of leaving dangling wires!

OK, that accessory three pin plug connector on the original control box was put there to make wiring gages simple, no need to pull the control box apart. The purple lead in the switched on positive lead to power the gages, the grey lead is the tach impulse lead, and the black is simply a ground.
You don’t need to leave that part of the original harness dangling inside the motor pan if you don’t want to. OMC did make a nice rubber cap that fits over the three pin rubber boot, the control box was originally shipped with this cover/boot in place. You could simply find that part number, cap off the rubber connector, and tie strap it up and out of the way to keep it dry. Or, you could simply cut the purple and ground leads off at the key switch and seal up the tach lead. Using the original rubber cap seems simpler to me though.

[fleetwin]

quote fleetwin:

quote johnyrude200:

Hi All,

Yes that is the same diagram I was looking at. The purple lead off the horn goes to terminal A, then from A to the plug on the harness (control box side). Looking at the diagram I couldn’t figure out where that needed to go from the plug since on the other side of the plug in the diagram, you see grey and purple/white coming out.

So what I am getting from your replies is that I don’t need to worry about that purple lead coming off of key switch terminal A…?

Thanks again. Everything is working with the set up I put together, but not in the habit of leaving dangling wires!

OK, that accessory three pin plug connector on the original control box was put there to make wiring gages simple, no need to pull the control box apart. The purple lead in the switched on positive lead to power the gages, the grey lead is the tach impulse lead, and the black is simply a ground.
You don’t need to leave that part of the original harness dangling inside the motor pan if you don’t want to. The OMC tachs had a nice wiring harness that simply plugged into the three pin connector on the box, and had purple/black pig tails to run off to other gages. OMC did make a nice rubber cap that fits over the three pin rubber boot, the control box was originally shipped with this cover/boot in place. You could simply find that part number, cap off the rubber connector, and tie strap it up and out of the way to keep it dry. Or, you could simply cut the purple and ground leads off at the key switch and seal up the tach lead. Using the original rubber cap seems simpler to me though.

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