Copper rimmed head gasket advice

[skanders01]

My first installation involving a copper rimmed gasket. I bought a new head gasket for my QD-16. Came as a copper rimmed (around cylinder wall ring) type with fiber other than that. Any special installation tips/techniques/adhesives for such a gasket? Have certainly absorbed the figure 8 tightening concept, but that is about it.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Kyle Anderson
Trempeleau, WI
skanders@triwest.net
920-764-0501

[crosbyman]

just torque it to spec

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[dan-in-tn]

Gasket Sealing Compound (Permatex Aviation Cement) or Mercury Perfect Seal will not hurt any application. Especially where NOS dry gasket material is involved. Even the new sticky gaskets OMC/BRP makes that say “NO Sealer needed” can benefit from sealer. I know that seems weird, but OMC put sealer on gasket labeled as not needing sealer to pass the initial pressure test before the engine was warmed up. The thermoreactor substance doesn’t kick till the block comes up to temp and retorqued.
The old NOS gaskets really benefit from a sealer in my opinion. OMC/BRP quit using the sealer because of paint adhesion problems. Different assembly techniques also changed the way the motor was tested.

Dan in TN

[skanders01]

Thanks for the help, gentlemen. I actually wound up putting it on dry. Initial compression was very low, less than 50 in both cylinders, on this (QD-16) guy so I just wanted to try the low hanging fruit to remedy first. Not sure the look from the top side was the lowest cost/effort exercise to start narrowing down low compression issue(s), but it was the easiest for me. Thought that if I didn’t add any adhesive/sealant this first time I may be able to reuse and seal if I have to remove and replace it again. Can this be done with a copper rimmed gasket? Compression check for improvement not yet done.
Maybe removing the exhaust head cover would be a better or next step in the low impact diagnostic procedure.? Can anything about the rings or the pistons be determined by looking at them through the exhaust chamber? Maybe I need to do some more homework on the site first. Seems like there should be and probably is a suggested procedure tor diagnosing a low compression problem, just haven’t come across it in my brief 3 years as a member.

Thanks again,
Kyle

Kyle Anderson
Trempeleau, WI
skanders@triwest.net
920-764-0501

[drifter]

I always remove the exhaust cover on a “new to me” engine. Two reasons to do so: 1) check the baffle for signs of erosion and possible pin holes, and 2) move the pistons to a spot where you can see the rings and use a small screwdriver to push on the rings. you should see and feel the rings bounce back. If you don’t , the rings are stuck and that leads to the low compression numbers.

[frankr]

As an easy first step,, remove the intake side covers. Poke at the rings to see if they move. At less than 50 psi, something is wrong. Is the paint discolored from overheating? Removing the exhaust cover will let you look for hot-side piston scoring. Yes, you can reuse the dry-installed head gasket if it hasn’t been run. I use OMC Gasket Sealer on them.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 8 months ago by frankr.

[outbdnut2]

Since you have the same low compression in both cylinders, you may have a small head gasket leak between the two cylinders.
Dave

[Author]

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