DS snap ring and SS seal

[Samuel Phelps]

Quick question guys . Putting LU back together after paint .
After putting the DS back in and tightening the pinion gear bolt . I put new DS bearings in after I installed the 3 shims that came out under the old bearings .
Is there a trick to getting the snap ring back on on top of the bearing ? Please tell me I don’t have to loosen the pinion gear bolt up . LOL !
I will if I have too but would rather not ..

Also on the SS upper seal . I installed a new Bushing and it came with a seal already installed with a green looking sealant . Then there were 2 I guess extra seals in the package. The reason I ask is that the new seal looks upside down compared to the old one . Should have just one upper seal and one O-ring underneath correct ?
62 Merc 450

My apologies if these are really stupid questions..

[Samuel Phelps]

Got the snap ring just now . I didn’t have the bearing seated completely down . I knew it had to be something simple .

1 user thanked author for this post.

neps989

[Samuel Phelps]

Kind of a different topic .
should I be putting any kind of sealant on the new water pump oil seals or on any press in seals in general ?

[billw]

I like red Loctite on the seals. As for the shift shaft seal, it should be installed lips facing up.

Long live American manufacturing!

[Samuel Phelps]

I have red loctite thread lock .. Is that what you use ?

[billw]

Yes, that’s what I use. In later Mercury engines, that is what the factory recommends.

Long live American manufacturing!

[Samuel Phelps]

How about the new water pump cup/ sleeve . And the gaskets in between the Two halves and flat plate ?
Gasket sealer ? Or dry fit .. This is my first Complete LU redo .. I’m gunna want to do a pressure test I guess once complete . Is that something I can perform myself or should I take it to a shop to test it ?

[billw]

If the water pump housing is aluminum (ugh) I would put some gasket sealer between the cup and the housing. Corrosion was known to build up between the housing and cup, causing the pump to stop working, due to metal distortion. If the housing is plastic, nothing is needed. That’s why they went to plastic. It is one case where plastic is actually way BETTER than metal.* As for the gaskets, I like to put a light coating of engine oil or grease on them. This will allow it to be taken apart down the road for a quick inspection if needed, without destroying the gaskets. Do not go overboard on this, just a very light coating. Impellers don’t like grease and oil.

*The downside to plastic housings is that they cannot dissipate heat very well. So if you were to start the engine with no water supplied, the impeller would start to be heat damaged in as little as three seconds.

Long live American manufacturing!

• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by billw.

[Samuel Phelps]

Thanks Bill , I do have an aluminum WP ..

[Samuel Phelps]

Sometimes I just can’t get out of my own way ..LOL ..  In my own haste I put thread lock on the cup insert and gasket sealer on the upper seal .. I was just sitting there admiring my work when it hit me that I had screwed up .
Hopefully it’s fine . I think it is probably ..

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