Electric start issue

[Richard L. Paquette]

Hey, having an issue with my electric starting system. The motor is essentially an RD 19, or 57 Johnson 35 HP.  It is working but the starter doesn’t always engage, rather just makes a clicking noise.   If you hold down the button it eventually goes.  The problem is intermittent sometimes it just works especially if it warm. Has anyone ever had this problem? Are there any fixes for this?

[frankr]

Most people would run out and buy a new starter solenoid.  But don’t do that.  First check the cable connections at the battery and plug on the side of the motor.  Don’t just look at them and wiggle them, remove them and clean them shiny clean.  Don’t forget, the wing nut holding the cable plug to the side is the ground terminal.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Tubs

[billw]

I would start by checking every connection, of course. Then put a negative volt meter lead on the starter case and the positive meter lead on the input wire to the starter. Try to crank the engine while observing the meter. (An analog meter works best for this but a digital will work.) If it reads 9.5 volts or higher (assuming a 12 volt system) and the starter doesn’t work, the starter itself is the problem. Less than 9.5V and it doesn’t work, the problem is in the wiring, solenoid, etc.. Write back after this test and tell us the results and we can go from there. For the record, usually if you hear the solenoid click every time but the starter only works occasionally, it’s probably going to be the solenoid. Historically speaking.

Long live American manufacturing!

[George Emmanuel]

Richard,

I agree with Frank, and also with Billw. I also have my 2cents worth to toss in. The starter, assuming it has never been rebuilt, is now approaching 70 years of age. Depending on how much it was run during its prime years, the brushes may be well worn or there may be a dead spot on the commutator. But connections can really cause problems. On my 70hp 1987 Johnson, the starter was lazy. Casey Lynn, retired OMC tech rep told me to check the negative post stud on the side of the engine block. He said to remove it and clean the threads both internally and externally even if the stud shows no signs of corrosion. I did that and the problem was solved. You couldn’t tell there was any internal corrosion from the outward appearance! But, it was there!

Good to see you making a post! Had hoped to see you and Azrik at Tomahawk!

George

 

[Richard L. Paquette]

Thanks for the tips.  I think I had that starter rebuilt, probably just over 10 years ago…  I will start by cleaning and applying dialectic grease to the connections and plug and see if that works.  I will keep you updated!

As far as attending T it didn’t work out this year.  We missed you all too, hopefully we will be able to make it next year.

Al Lockhart had a mini meetup in Azilda, we even worked on a motor, but it wasn’t the Tomahawk experience for sure, that can only happen at T.

[fleetwin]

There is a great test procedure in the later OMC outboard service manuals referred to as the “voltage drop test”.   Using an analog voltmeter is best, this test helps pinpoint the actual problem/connection/wire and avoid replacing expensive parts needlessly.

[billw]

Yeah, I was kind of having him start down that road, with the voltage drop at the starter being the first thing…..Boy, if that whole test could be posted, it should go up in the Inner Sanctum.

Long live American manufacturing!

[Tubs]

You also need to determine if you have a good battery.
You can get some idea of the condition of the battery
using a volt meter. After you have the battery fully
charged let it sit over night. In the morning you should
have 12.2 volts of higher. If the charge is below 12 volts
the battery is failing. With the volt meter connected to
the battery check the voltage as the starter is cranking.
If the voltage is below 10.5 volts consider replacing
the battery. Some time ago I bought an exact replica
battery car battery that looks the same as the original
battery the car came with. It came with a card with
instructions on how to extend its life. The card stated-
“A battery looses 1% of its charge each day. When a
battery looses 10% of its charge it begins to sulfate.”
That means particles begin dropping off the plates
and start collecting in the bottom of the battery case.
Over time they build up to where this short out the
plates. So for this reason when you buy a new battery
you want to go to a place that sells a lot of batteries.
Auto Zone, Walmart. If you see a battery rack and
the “new” batteries are all dusty their not likely to
last very long. If you have a battery that is only used
seasonally it need to be on a maintenance charger
if you expect it to last any time at all. If the battery
in your daily driver(s) is 4 years old or older it’s a
good idea to do the above tests in the fall. Beats
the heck out of having to be out there in the cold
with the cables, jumper box or calling for a tow.
That can cost about the same as the battery.
Tubs.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[billw]

My rule of thumb for batteries after being in the boat business for nearly 50 years, is that if it’s older than four years, you are just basically ASKING for trouble. It is possible that it would last another six, but it’s much more likely that it will fail tomorrow. And nobody is going to have jumper cables on the ocean. Batteries are cheap, cheap insurance.

Long live American manufacturing!

[fleetwin]

Good point Tubs, gotta start at the beginning, the battery.  Check the cells and do a load test.  And yeah Bill, figured you were headed down that road, but the OMC manuals really lay out the procedure nicely.  In my younger days, the drop test seemed nuts to me.  Not that I have aged, it finally makes sense.  But, like you say, a shorted starter will skew the drop test.  This test procedure really helps identify the actual issue without replacing expensive parts and adding more confusion.

[Author]

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