Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Elgin/West Bend lower unit questions
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joesnuffy.
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August 23, 2016 at 5:28 pm #5049
This is the lower unit on my recently obtained 1958 Elgin 7.5.
Note three things:
The mating surfaces of the gearcase and the leg don’t match. Gearcase is from a different/larger motor? Correct gear ratios?
Note ring of weld metal around the case. Possibly snap ring groove was buggered up?
Note aluminum shield (or something) behind the prop. This does not appear on my parts breakdowns. Fish line shield of some sort? does this pry out?Can anybody advise how to read all this?
August 23, 2016 at 9:58 pm #42580Originally, that engine had a snap ring to hold the bearing/seal carrier in place. From the looks of the weld, it it appears that it suffered some freeze damage from water in the gear oil. When it freezes and expands, it pushes the carrier out and breaks off the end of the gearcase, or the part where the snap ring goes in. It looks like the snap ring is missing, the way the carrier is protruding out. Try to gently push or tap it back in until you see the snap ring groove showing . I’m not sure why the lower section is larger… maybe it’s been transplanted from a newer motor, maybe a Chrysler? You may be ahead to find another lower gearcase or a complete one. Check the complete lower unit over for freeze cracks…. my 7 1/2 Elgin is cracked in two places. BTW, I found an inexpensive impeller that is available from Mercury to fit my 7 1/2 Elgin. i can get that # if you need it, let me know. Hope this helps!
August 24, 2016 at 6:17 pm #42604Yes, it makes sense that the case would break at the snap ring groove. And, it was full of water. The thing you see is not the bearing carrier but some sort of shield. I think some of the later Chrysler versions of this gearcase had a "weed guard" and that’s what we are seeing. I need to take this completely apart….
The impeller I used in my 12 hp was a Sierra 18-8903 (CHRYSLER FORCE 47-F436065-2). This presently costs $12.62 on Amazon. Is this the same one you are thinking of?
Thanks!
August 24, 2016 at 7:54 pm #42610Yes, the Mercury number is the one I ordered. The part # looks right anyway, but would have to look.
August 25, 2016 at 3:18 pm #42655Not to steal this thread but I have some questions on these West Bend/Elgin lower units.
I am re-doing 2 of these 12hp West Bends right now seems like water gets in them easily and I have never worked on these lower units is their any secrets to getting them to seal?
Does anyone know what the part number for the prop shaft seal is that I can use? The part number I have is obsolete.
Also the upper shaft seal right below impeller can someone confirm if this one will work? Mercury Seal Drive Shaft 26-F901307-2
The shift rod seal does someone know what I can use for this and part #? or possibly just an o-ring?
Thanks for the help,
JoeAugust 27, 2016 at 10:08 am #42751Since Mercury Marine bought out US Marine, who bought out Chrysler, who acquired West Bend in the first place, I have found that Mercury may have some parts [that were used on Force motors] that would work. Impellers are one thing that you can find if you research it a bit. I gonna go through my 12 Elgin [West bend] this winter, and I thought I’d look at some old Chryslers or Force parts catalog’s. If you could find someone with a Mercury Marine Electronic Parts Catalog, you can look up the old Chrysler, and Force parts there. The EPC still even shows the old Mercury OB parts catalog’s, all the way back till the beginning. I’ll bet some older Chrysler parts from the 10, 15, and 20 hp range may interchange. When I work on Force motors, I can still see a lot of West Bend engineering and idea’s that have been carried over.
August 27, 2016 at 2:30 pm #42760Jerry,
Thanks for the help. I got both mine running very well. They may be the smoothest running motors I have ever worked on the magneto advance on them has a lot more control and movement than any I have ever seen which I think combined with the Tillotsen carb and Wico magneto makes for a terrific smooth running engine. When you put them in gear they are just as smooth no gear crunching.I have noticed that the 6 vein impellers siera makes 18-8903 doesn’t work near as-well as the original OEM West Bend 6 vein impeller. The original West Bend impellers had very large balls on the ends of impeller where the siera aren’t near as round. One of the West Bends I took apart had a 10 vein impeller in it I believe this is the impeller http://www.ebay.com/itm/321793969083?_t … EBIDX%3AIT they work a lot better than the siera 18-8903 and will be what I most likely put back into these motors. I am running 2 old 6 vein OEM West Impellers right now and they pump very well. You can see my 12s running here if you would like to watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqTx56TadjQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwIxjs1Cq-o
Note: I did try electronic modules on these motors and they would not work they were firing at the wrong time.
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