Evinrude 1967 3hp

[JanVanSickle]

I have replaced all ignition parts, point gap and timing correct.  No spark on one plug and faint on the other.  Tested all parts except condensers.  A vey knowledgeable mechanic said it’s probably a bad flywheel magnet.  He said they get week over time.  Thumbs up or down on aging magnet?  JT

[johnny]

I wouldn’t blame the flywheel magnets until you get the condensers tested or replaced. I have a professional condenser tester if you want to send them to me for testing.

1 user thanked author for this post.

amuller

[Mumbles]

Your magnets should be OK  but it’s the older iron magnets used in prewar motors which can get weak and need recharging. Magnets made since the late forties are made of alloys and will hold their charge indefinitely

No spark or weak spark can be caused by a bad condenser and also by poor connections at either end of the spark plug wires if the points and coils are good. Are the plugs new?  NGK B6S set at 0.030″ are a good choice for this motor.  If the connection to the coils are good, check the condition of the spring terminal inside the plug boot. They like to corrode or come loose over time.

[crosbyman]

if the magnets grab your screwdriver  they are ok

what is the resistance  boot to  engine frame  ????

 

clean clean clean the points

 

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[Anonymous]

Even though your points are new clean them with

a fine sandpaper or emery cloth.

Then run a piece of clean paper with alcohol on it

to make sure there is no oil on them.

Always deoil them after using feeler gauges

Good luck.

[labrador-guy]

Anonymous wrote:

Even though your points are new clean them with

a fine sandpaper or emery cloth.

Then run a piece of clean paper with alcohol on it

to make sure there is no oil on them.

Always deoil them after using feeler gauges

Good luck.

Steve is right on here!   I can not emphasize enough the importance of clean points.  When you know your components are good.  Spin the motor with an electric drill with the plugs out.  There is something about polarizing the electrical system by spinning the motor a little faster to get the electricity going the right direction.  There is nothing wrong with your magnets unless they are cracked or broken.  When I have had a bad condenser the motor would usually misfire spit an sputter kinda thing.

JMHO  dale

[JanVanSickle]

Thanks for all the advice.  Trying to eleminate variables and the condensors/points are most suspect.  Tried new from Sierra and was disappointed — the points don’t set parallel and the slots for the adjusting cam screw is too wide and the points can move — no spark.  Put the old OMC points back in, cleaned, and adjusted and got light spark on one cylinder and non on the other after 600 sandpaper and alcohol clean.  I will get a cheep condensor testor or may be better — is the Blue kit tester a good one?  Harbor Freight has a DM300 for 20 bucks I could pick up today.  I have a nice Fluke multi-meter but from what I have read volt/ohm testing is not good enough. JT

[frankr]

Condensers very rarely are the cause of complete loss of spark.  I’d look elsewhere.  Or at least swap them side for side.

[JanVanSickle]

I’ve ordered a new set of OMC condensors/points.

[JanVanSickle]

spark boot conn. to block 8.4 and 8.7 k ohm.  JT

[Author]

Posts