Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Evinrude Big Twin 35 hp spark jump
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Steve A W.
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July 26, 2015 at 11:10 pm #2122
I’m working on a big twin and it started first pull on oil gas mix sprayed into the cyls, but now it won’t start anymore. I checked the spark an it is consistant but will only jump a small gap. I moved the gap out to 3/4 inch and it won’t jump. What distance should it jump and what should I look at?
July 26, 2015 at 11:58 pm #20954Seven milimeters or a quarter of an inch …
Is fuel getting to the carburetor?
. . . . . 😉
July 27, 2015 at 12:51 am #20964Yes fuel is getting to the carb I can hear it pump in when I prime the tank. But even when I squirt some in the cyls it is not starting now. I’ll check if spark can jump the 7mm.
July 27, 2015 at 1:34 am #20967Ok so I checked the spark jump in the dark t get a clearer idea and the bottom is bright blue at 7 mm. The top is inconsistant and a weaker brownish colour. What doe that point to? A weak coil? Poor gap? Any or all?
July 27, 2015 at 1:37 am #20968Try a little fogging oil in the cylinder. You may have washed all of the oil off of the rings by putting gas directly in the cylinders and loosing some compression.
July 27, 2015 at 1:39 am #20970It should at least run on one cylinder if you have good spark on one….
July 27, 2015 at 2:57 am #20978Yeah, I figured that but it does not and it is not easy to hand pull a 35 hp engine. I’ll try the fogging oil idea.
July 27, 2015 at 2:09 pm #21004I had a very similar problem with a friend’s 1962 40Hp Evinrude. It would start cold but any attempts to start it after that were to no avail, even putting in a new set of spark plugs. We swapped, mags, ignition modules, used starting fluid, etc. and the results were never consistent. There was no reason this engine would not re-start with healthy compression, good spark, air and fuel. Then on a test run where we shut it done and it would not start I made an observation that jogged my memory.
These engines used a Champion J6J or J4J. This was a special spark plug that had the side electrode cut back so it ended directly over the middle of the center electrode. This arrangement allows for a better spark due to the sharp edge of the side electrode directly over the center electrode to blast through oil and gas film that accumulates on the spark plug.
Since the Champ J6J and J4J is not available anymore the NGK equivalent matches heat range only, NOT the side electrode modification. We pulled the NGK plugs out, cut back the side electrode like the J6J had and ventured out again. NO matter when we shut the motor off, it always started within 1 spin of the flywheel, hot or cold, 10 out of 10 times without fail. It was like magic.
This weekend my friend took his boat out in the bay to do some crabbing, not a good place to have a motor that refuses to start as the sun goes down and wind whipped waves appear. His motor started every time, all day long.
If you aren’t using the Champ J plugs I suggest you modify whatever brand you are using so the side electrode ends over the middle of the center electrode. There is a reason the people at OMC and Champion made this spark plug unique in that aspect and I am not smart enough to fully understand it, I am just reporting this was the magic bullet for my friend’s 1962 40Hp Evinrude.
July 27, 2015 at 2:25 pm #21006Same reason lightning rods have pointy ends.
July 27, 2015 at 2:39 pm #21008Interesting story RV. I have the J6J plugs but I switched them to the J6C new plugs from Champion. That said I bypassed the plugs when I tested the spark and it was clearly dull on the top cyl. I pulled the flywheel this morning and the coils are the newer type. Infact everything but the points looks newer. Which set of ignition components correspond to which cyl?
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