Evinrude RBM questions

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

I think the Maxim mufflers were offered first in 1915…
and that four digit tag is like a 1912 or 1911 don’t remember,, but dang DON’T lose it!!!!!!!!!!
and on the complete 1914 mag??? Yes sold it on a motor to Todd Mizen of Ohio on a later model motor but it worked…only sodl it because I came across the correct 1913 stuff..

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[bill-loveland]

Do you remember if the mag plate/timer lever/coil/points assy/etc was the same as the later motors?

I want to set up the 1913 as a battery ignition and the 1914 as a flywheel mag – I don’t really care if it’s original under the flywheel

[bill-loveland]

I’ll try to post some pics of the 1915 I’m planning to keep. Selling a 1915 and a 1916 on ebay right now.

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

I do not now about the mag plate I don’t recall any differences mentioned on those but I am getting older.
Here is what you will find, the magneto flywheel will run just fine, but idling down is where you will find the BIGGEST difference. I changed my motor from mag flywheel to battery and am now running around the 300 rpm range and I KNOW I can get lower.
I do not think you can do that with a magneto flywheel…Trying to get down with Chris Scratch and his 160 rpm Caille….

I WILL succeed 🙂

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[garry-in-michigan]

For really slow RPM nothing beats a Model "T" Ford vibrator battery ignition. It throws a high voltage spark when ever the points are closed. It also drains the battery the fastest. . . 😀

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

that is what I use…. I have run mine on the Mod T buzz box for a 3 mile run, that is about 3 hours…pretty dam close and not needed a recharge of the battery…

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[PM T2]

About the battery charge level……

This here set-up used a box of four buzz coils that were wired up in such a way that I only needed one battery to power the three coils that were actually used. I charged that battery up in the spring, and ran it all season without recharging. it ran for about 3-4 hours at Constantine, then another 3-4 hours at Lake Webster later that year.

It is typical for me to go an entire season without recharging the battery. It is a simple lead-acid unit out of an emergency light system, the battery is good for 7.2 volts and 10 a/hr. The ten amps is the important part, it allows this battery to also do a smashing job of running any Elto you want to hook up to it.

Oh yeah – in this instance, it was important to isolate each motor from the others. When initially tested, it was found that closing the points on one motor fired the plugs of all three! Plus it sent a shock through the seat of the boat too, lol

Hope this helps.

best,
PM T2

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

[PM T2]

Give it up White, by the time you get down anywhere below 300, I will find a speed sensing device that gives us an accurate picture of how slow my Caille runs….. many folks who witnessed the 160 RPM clocking swore that it was more likely barely breaking 100 😉

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

[bill-loveland]

I posted this on Fiberglassics yesterday, your pic of the Alumafreighter reminded me

compound curves:

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Attachments:

[bill-loveland]

Tried to make a coil plate from a later RBM work on my 1914 last night – not a chance. The crankshaft’s an inch or so shorter and there’s just no way it could be modified to fit.

Back to the drawing board.

It did give me the opportunity to take off the timer lever for the battery ignition setup – what a cute little piece of brass that is.

[Author]

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