First pressure tank….

[Anonymous]

I’m getting close to testing a 1959 Evinrude Fastwin I’ve been slowly working on.
This is my first engine with a pressure tank (I’m a child of the 1960’s, but I do
recall seeing pressure tank setups for rent when I was young).

The tank has this decal, which nymarine.ca identifies as one of two variations:
http://nymarine.ca/58EVGTANKLG2.gif

The tank has a single-piece rounded plastic button for priming.

Looking at the parts diagram for a 1958 tank at marine engine:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … =Fuel+Tank

I want to inspect the diaphragm and gasket condition, clean out any crud, and dope the float before I put fuel in.

Removing the 8 screws identified as part #20 didn’t seem to loosen up the top assembly.
The handle and its screws (parts #18 and #17 respectively) have lower part numbers, do they need to come off first?

The engine went thru several hands before I got it. One was a kid who was liberal with RTV, but the next was an adult who might have done the right thing (he had purchased Frank’s host fitting gasket replacement tool), so I don’t know what to expect.

It looks like the original diaphragm was the one with the hard disk, but was superceeded to metal "support" and the diaphragm with no disk and no hole (377327 is a kit which contains a button, the metal support and the new diaphragm)?

If it has already been "upgraded" and just needs a diaphragm, all I need is 305715.

Thanks in advance!
Phil

[chris-p]

Nope, just the 8 screws and the top will come off. perhaps it is sealed down, just pry it off.

[david-bartlett]

Nothing to scary in there. If you can do a carb, you can do this!

[Anonymous]

quote Chris_P:

Nope, just the 8 screws and the top will come off. perhaps it is sealed down, just pry it off.

Thanks! Having broken castings before, I’ve learned to ask before applying a larger hammer!

[chris-p]

There is the tiny little silver check, and 2 springs, you don’t want to lose.

[fleetwin]

yeah, probably just stuck down with excessive sealer. You could gently wedge a scraper type tool between the handle assembly and tank in order to avoid banging/breaking stuff. Be careful not to gouge up the mating surfaces, they must seal well so the tank will hold pressure. You shouldn’t need to apply excessive amounts of sealer to these surfaces if they are in good condition.

[chas56x]

When you have the top of the tank off, unscrew the gland nut on the top of the fuel pick up tube. Shake the tube to see if you can hear the check valve ball rattle in the bottom of the tube. It may be stuck. The check valve lets the fuel go up the tube but not down back to the tank. If it is stuck, squirt some carburetor cleaner in the tube, let is soak for a minute or two then shake the tube again. Repeat until the valve ball is loose. You can also check by sucking on the top of the tube to see if the valve is moving off of its seat. Try blowing through the tube, if you can’t blow any air through the tube the valve is working.

[Mumbles]

Some 10-24 screws with the heads cut off will act as guides to help keep everything lined up while putting it back together.

The guides in the photo here are made from the extra screws which come with new OMC/BRP coils.

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[Anonymous]

quote Mumbles:

Some 10-24 screws with the heads cut off will act as guides to help keep everything lined up while putting it back together.

The guides in the photo here are made from the extra screws which come with new OMC/BRP coils.

quote david bartlett:

Nothing to scary in there. If you can do a carb, you can do this!

Thanks! I managed to reassemble an incorrectly put-together square fuel pump…. Only took me three tries…. Can’t be worse than that!!

[fisherman6]

I have done the square fuel pumps and so far one pressure tank. The pressure tank is easier.

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

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