Fisherman (5.5) lower crank seals?

[amuller]

I’m getting ready to open one of these to change the impeller.

I gather there is a stack up of several parts retained by a spring and a cross-pin in the drive shaft. Studying the available parts breakdowns has confused me. Seems there is an O ring. Seems there is a cork gasket similar if not identical to the small filter bowl gasket. Plus more. Ordering one of each would cost more than I paid for the motor. Can anyone advise what parts I can expect to need to ensure effective sealing? (Have read warnings that a bad seal here can have disastrous consequences.)

Apparently at the top of the crank there is a "slinger" but no actual seal. Correct?

Thanks!

[Doug Wilson]

You will want a power head gasket, o-ring and cork gasket piece. The rest is generally ok unless someone cracked the ring the o-ring sets in.

Doug

how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off?

[crosbyman]

Well if you spent $10 on the motor yes parts will exceed motor costs as it normally does…..
O rings are cheap and should be available locally if you hunt around a bit

the carbon seal and other parts can be had from VINTAGEOUTBOARD.COM and other places just shop around but do expect to spend some $$$ for your hobby.

the 5.5 is and excellent motor and if it was stored/and treated properly in it’s earlier life you will have a fine motor to fish with for years

if the slinger is intact leave it in place.

just do a compression check and other basics like coils points condensers gearcase sealing etc…

lots of good videos on utube on the 5.5 including fuel pump conversion if you want to use a modern fuel tank with a single line hove.
Purist like to run these on the pressure tank and dual fuel line.

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[amuller]

Of course I expect to spend some money, but with parts prices inflated as they are, on needs to proceed with caution.

The 8 seal-related parts prices from one vendor (marineengine.com)add up to $120.40. Assuming only the gasket and O ring are needed, that’s $6.09. And the O ring bought as a commodity item would only be a few cents….

This one is a 62 so it has the single line fuel system. Everybody seems to agree these are nice little motors. Expect to have it running in a few days.

[frankr]

Always replace the 303355 gasket and 303347 o-ring (inside the carbon seal) Original 303356 plates were made of brass and wore badly. Dealers were to told to replace them with the stainless steel one (same number). Your choice–you can also use the brass one if it is in decent condition—or smooth it out with some sandpaper. 303391 carbon seal should be ok unless it is broken (fragile). Spring normally should also be ok. Finally, the lower spring retainer is ok if the drive bumps haven’t worn off the bottom. Glue the gasket to the plate so the plate doesn’t spin (847 Sealant is excellent for that putpose)

photoupload

[1946zephyr]

If you’re into this motor for $10,then that’s a steal. If you can’t feel comfortable about spending a lot on that, then you can easily part it out and make your money back. Those are great motors and still hold up good.

[frankr]

Better yet, sell it to somebody else for $20 and double your money and save a classic old motor.

[amuller]

Hey, I never said I paid $10 for it. That was somebody else’s thought. Actually, I paid $75,and it didn’t come with a tank. Unless they were bullshitting me, it had been in a family since new and they said "take good care of it." I guess I could have offered them $50, but somehow it didn’t feel like the thing to do.

Thanks for the details on the seal setup!

Alan

[frankr]

In reply to your original question, yes there is no seal at the top. Any oil that escapes is thrown off by the slinger and sucked back down to the intake manifold for recycling. Works amazingly well for such a simple system. BTW, there is an uber-simple oil pump to pump the oil up there too.

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