Float on evinrude 3012

[Gary Peterson]

Hello…finally got this old motor running but the carb is slightly flooding, it will not run slowly

[fleetwin]

Tell us more please, have you rebuilt the carb? If so, did you use an OMC kit?

[Gary Peterson]

Yes ,rebuilt, first with Sierra kit. I could not get the float needle to close. Then from an OMC kit I used the seat, needle and float. The other parts are still Sierra. Now not flooding and the motor will start from cold in 3-4 pulls and will run fast and medium rpm.
I adjusted the high speed needle ( in a barrel). But in trying to slow down to adjust the slow speed it stalls before it is running very slow. When I do turn the slow speed needle I am not hearing much of a response. I have one or two minutes before it dies. It runs best with slow speed needle out 2/3 turn.
Also after dying there are a few drops of gas on the lower edge of the carb intake. Is the float not adjusted correctly yet?
I do not have an air silencer. I have ordered one on Amazon.
The packing for the needles are from the Sierra kit. I am not sure about those but they are not leaking gas. Could they be leaking air?
Sure do appreciate the help. Tks

[fleetwin]

OK, how about a little history on this engine…Is it new to you? If so, did it ever idle correctly? If not new to you, when was the last time it idled OK? I don’t really think the carb is flooding based on your description, there will always be a few drops of fuel in the carb throat…Fuel isn’t actually dribbling out of the throat after you shut it off, correct? 2/3s of a turn out from seated seems kinda lean for the idle mixture. I suppose you could check your flooding theory but shutting off the fuel supply line then running the engine a bit to see if you can dial it in any better.. Does turning the needle valve in and out seem to make any difference in running guality? It is possible that the packing is leaking air, but that goes directly against what you describe as your fuel mixture adjustment. Is there any chance that the tip of the needle valve is broken off and stuck in the mixing chamber? I don’t think that not having the air silencer attached can affect idle quality this much. Hard to believe the air silencer can be ordered on Amazon, hope you have ordered the correct part?
I guess it is best to start over at this point, with basic checks and adjustments. Have you checked compression? Are you sure it is sparking on both cylinders while running, have you tried new plugs? Just because the plugs might be new, doesn’t mean they are any good. How about the carburetor throttle plate, is it stuck or jammed? Are you sure it is closing fully at idle? There is no way to know if the carb throttle plate is closing correctly unless you remove it and have a look through the back of the carburetor throat. Is the throttle cam adjusted properly? The carb throttle plate should be closed at idle speeds. Is your fuel/oil supply correct, is it fresh with no water?
Does the engine run properly at higher speeds? If so, fully supply issues seem unlikely. Again, it is tough to judge much running the engine in a barrel, where is the high speed needle set at?
Initial carb needle adjustments are: 1.5 turns out from gently seated for low speed (top) needle valve 3/4 turns out from gently seated for high speed/bottom needle…It is best to dial in the high speed needle first before attempting to adjust the low speed needle.

[Gary Peterson]

Tks much. Tomorrow I will remove slow speed needle ,double check end of it.And repack with OMC parts. Then try starting at 1 1/2 turns out.
I will check if throttle plate closes completely. This is a new idea for me to check.
I will look at throttle cam . But will have to figure out how to make any adjustments. I suppose it is just logical.

The marks on the housing indicating at what number the adjustment needles are set at, are missing ,or I just can’t see them. So it’s hard for me to report that .

This motor is new to me. I have never heard it run until now. It has been stored lying down on a pallet in a heated warehouse for over 30 years. Looks like it was well stored as it was perfectly clean , the carb had not a single speck of dirt and was bright and shiny inside and out. The carb cleaner blasted thru every passage and hole. I did not remove plugs. Coils were cracked so I replaced them, spark plug wires and plugs. They are both sparking on my tester. New points and condensers. Cleaned gas tank, and fuel line. New gas and oil. 24:1.
It now starts on pull 3 or 4, and will run at fast and moderate rpm quite nicely. It just rattles and dies when I move throttle toward idle.

You are so correct , air silencer is from another site, not Amazon. Currently delayed in transit. So just moving ahead.
TIA

[Gary Peterson]

So I ended up completely disassembled carb again. Still no sign of any crud or residue anywhere.Slow needle screw is perfect. Removed Walsh plug, perfectly clean chambers and passageway. Sprayed all passageways with carb cleaner. Reassembled with all OMC gaskets and packing. Adjusted float just a little hoping to allow a little less gas to flow. Still seems like it is slightly flooding when not running fast. Throttle plate is closing completely.
Reed and chambers are perfectly clean.
The throttle cam does close plate at the idle position. And opens fully at fast side. Seems correct to me but I have no information on setting it.
Tried to start with needles at 1 1/2 out. Nothing. Started to fire at about 1 turn out and ran when set back slightly less than 1. It ran about 4-5 minutes, did adjust high speed needle to a peak good smooth speed. But then quit and I could not even try to get to a slow speed. Would not run again.
Maybe tomorrow I can try to adjust slow speed first. Don’t know what else to try on carb.

I am wondering if heat is the problem. It is spraying water on both sides when it does run, but I don’t know if it is right. I put in new impeller kit.

I appreciate your thoughts on what to try now.

[fleetwin]

Are you sure you are not losing spark after running a few minutes? Have you peeked under the flywheel inspection plate? Maybe this thing has old coils that are cracked/split. Try those inline neon testers to pinpoint an ignition issue…

[Gary Peterson]

New coils, points, condensers, wires and plugs. My tester showed strong spark before and again today but that was just turning motor over not running. I didn’t know the tester could be on there when running. I can try that tomorrow.

[Author]

Posts