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fleetwin.
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May 26, 2017 at 8:56 pm #58406
Could I pressurize the tank using an outside source, in my shop, while the engine is running, just to see if lack of pressure is the problem?
May 26, 2017 at 9:00 pm #58407Could I pressurize the tank using an outside source while the engine is running to see if lack of pressure is the problem?
May 26, 2017 at 9:14 pm #58408Not sure if your carburetor has the sintered filter in the glass fuel bowl, but if so you might want to try running the engine with the filter removed.
Does the tank retain pressure after running the engine? In other words, does pressure escape from the fuel cap when you loosen it after running for awhile?
If so, it would seem as though the engine is pressurizing the tank, and the tank is holding pressure. I would check the fuel lines, filter, and perhaps the pickup filter in the tank.
If no pressure escapes after running and loosening the cap, then there could be a problem with the engine/intake manifold, check valves in the tank, or perhaps an external leak in the tank such as the gasket.
The simplest way to answer some questions is to try another known good pressure tank.
Converting this engine to a single line system with a fuel pump and tank is not all that simple, and costs some money…
I would diagnose the two line system completely first, perhaps the solution is a simple one…May 26, 2017 at 9:22 pm #58410Thanks Fleetwin I will spend some time working with it tomorrow. Is the rubber check valve under the carb the most likely problem? I took the carb off to check it, but it seems like brand new. The engine itself appears to be very original with little use.
May 26, 2017 at 9:40 pm #58412part number 38 is probaably out of tthe old posiition. Remove the top of tank,then re center the small black disc. So it matches the old original position.You can move the disc wih a dull pointer or screwdriver.You do no have to take it all apart again,just move the disc. I have done this repeatedly when I didnot get it straigh the first time. Now I alsways check this,and I also have NOS discs.
May 26, 2017 at 9:43 pm #58413Thanks Johng. I will check that tomorrow.
May 26, 2017 at 11:32 pm #58416quote Oakhurst:Thanks Fleetwin I will spend some time working with it tomorrow. Is the rubber check valve under the carb the most likely problem? I took the carb off to check it, but it seems like brand new. The engine itself appears to be very original with little use.Do you mean the rubber check valve behind the carb and intake manifold? It is possible that one or both of these is broken, but it wouldn’t be my first guess. You have to remove the carb and intake manifold in order to access these check valves, so I would check simpler things first…
The first thing I would do is remove that sintered filter in the glass bowl below the carb. Once the glass bowl is off, I would connect the fuel hose and pump the primer button several times to check fuel flow to the carb. If fuel flow seems OK, I would reinstall the glass bowl and leave out the filter element, but make sure the rubber glass bowl gasket has not fallen out of place.
Next, I would pump up the primer button and start the engine. It might be a good idea to spray the top of the tank with soap to look for external leaks. You can just keep pumping the button to keep the engine running for a few minutes to build up a little pressure in the tank. Try to run the engine at a faster speed in gear while running it on the boat. Then, let the engine stall out on its own after a few minutes, then loosen the fuel tank cap slighty to see if it has built up pressure. If the tank has built up pressure, chances are pretty good, the intake manifold check valves are OK. Keep in mind that the engine will probably sneeze and cough a lot at low speed if the tank is not pressurizing properly.
Tell us more about this engine, did you just purchase it? When was the last time it ran OK? You mention having the carb apart and it "looked clean". Have you had a look at the inside/bottom of the fuel tank? The engine is never going to run right if the bottom of the tank is fouled or rusty. Is your fuel/oil supply fresh/no water? Are you mixing at 16:1?May 26, 2017 at 11:34 pm #58417quote Oakhurst:Using the original 2 line fuel tank, I get pressure from the pump on the tank
and it starts but runs only a short time. I can re pump and it will start again.
I have replaced the tank to engine hoses and the o rings in the connector.
The rubber check valve behind the carb appears to be in great condition.
Is fuel delivery to these engines a problem that is sometimes solved with a
different fuel pump and a one hose tank?What rubber check valve are you referring to? Did you have the intake manifold off? I am assuming this engine is new to you and it has not run correctly since you acquired it…
May 27, 2017 at 12:10 am #58419I purchased the engine on Ebay many years ago. It was shipped in a homemade box, well constructed with the tank secured in the bottom of the box. It appeared to be in "new" condition and owned by someone who really treasured it. The box was made for storage, not shipping, but it survived well.
The tank also appears pure. I haven’t tried to run the engine until now. It started on 16/1 ofter about 10 pulls. However it only seemed to run until the carb went dry.
I have pulled the carb and intake to inspect the rubber check valve because i thought it was not pressurizing the tank. I also replaced the 0 rings on the connecter, as you said looking for the simpler things. I sprayed the carb with B-12 even though it looked brand new. I will remove the filter from the glass bowl, check the gasket and reassemble the intake and carb. I will then do all the tests you speak of.
I really appreciate your help.May 27, 2017 at 2:27 am #58426If you can find someone close that has a known good tank might try that
Doug
how is it motors multiply when the garage lights get
turned off? -
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