Getting the gas out when you’re done using a motor.

[Tubs]

Have you ever read in any operators manual-
running out of gas will damage this motor?
I never have.
What’s the difference ?
Tubs.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[jrm80]

Point well taken.

[crosbyman]

alternative.   since I do not carry my motors in the trunk of the car (no spills)   I always  store my motors fully fuel with circulated long term storage products .

I store the motors 6-7 months from OCT to  APRIL

Somes engines with injectors cooled  by the fuel itself  are not suppose to be  let run   dry… my understanding anyway.

In conclusion I have in the past 50  years   alternated between  the 2 philosophies     (dry stored or  fully fuel stored) .

With my new 2005 ETEC 75hp  I have always  stored  it  with  full fuel in the system  and  I have done the same  on all  older  small HP outboards  incl my  1966  9.5hp kicker  and  I have never had any issues creep up.  Every Spring that  ETEC has started  on …a nickel  🙂

 

 

 

 

 

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

• This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by crosbyman.

[Mumbles]

Tubs wrote:

Have you ever read in any operators manual-
running out of gas will damage this motor?
I never have.
What’s the difference ?
Tubs.

This applies more to multi carb motors as the top carb will run dry before the lower carb and no lube or fuel mix will be getting to the upper cylinder.  Not so much of a concern on motors with a single carb.

[jrm80]

CORRECT. THE CARBURETORS WILL NOT ALL RUN OUT AT THE SAME TIME WHICH BRINGS ME BACK TO THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM. AT LEAST ONE OR MORE CARBURETORS WILL STILL HAVE GAS IN IT (THEM) AFTER RUNNING THE ENGINE UNTIL IT STOPS.  THE REMAINING FUEL WILL EVAPORATE OVER THE WINTER WITH OR WITHOUT STABILIZER LEAVING THE GUMMY RESIDUE  THAT ENDS UP IN THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL. THEN ONCE AGAIN, OFF GO THE CARBURETORS FOR CLEANING AGAIN. MY MARK 55 HAS NO DRAIN PLUGS IN THE CARBS AND IT’S A REAL PAIN IN THE BEHIND TO R&R THE CARBURETORS EVERY SPRING. I COULD DISPENSE WITH THE RITUAL,  AND TAKE MY CHANCES, BUT THE THRILL OF AN ENGINE FAILURE IS NOT AS EXCITING AS IT USED TO BE.

ANYHOW, I’VE WRESTLED WITH THIS QUESTION FOR SOME TIME NOW AND WAS HOPING SOMEONE HAS A SOLUTION.

 

THANKS FOR YOUR FEEDBACK.

[Mumbles]

Why not run the motor with a heavy dose of Stabil or something similar in the fuel and call it a day?

[jrm80]

I think that’s probably exactly what I’m going to do. As I read the descriptions, Stabil and the other gas treatments reduce the evaporation problem and between running the engine dry and the stabil, it should minimize the problem. I use a fuel conditioner anyhow (crc brand) so that seems like a reasonable approach. Once again my apologies to Tubs for hijacking his post. I didn’t really mean to do that.

[Tubs]

Mumbles wrote:

Tubs wrote:

Have you ever read in any operators manual-
running out of gas will damage this motor?
I never have.
What’s the difference ?
Tubs.

This applies more to multi carb motors as the top carb will run dry before the lower carb and no lube or fuel mix will be getting to the upper cylinder.  Not so much of a concern on motors with a single carb.

There is more oil in a crankcase than that which is in the fuel.
Besides the surfaces that need lubrication some oil attaches
to the other surfaces like the crankshaft, connecting rods and
the block it self. When a motor sits over night you’ll get more
smoke than normal when starting one for the first time. This
is the result of that residual oil draining off and pooling it the
bottom of the crankcase. This oil gets picked up when the
motor is started resulting in that initial extra bit of smoke.
After the fuel runs out there is still enough oil remaining to
continue to provide adequate lubrication. However if there is
a manual or a service bulletin for any model 2 cycle outboard
motor that states running out of gas will result in damage from
lack of lubrication please share it.
Tubs.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[jrm80]

THANKS FOR YOUR THOUGHTS. I NEVER REALLY WORRIED ABOUT RUNNING AN ENGINE DRY UNTIL I RAN ACROSS A POSTING BY ONE OF THE MODERATORS IN ANOTHER FORUM THAT RAISED THE ISSUE. FACT IS, I’VE BEEN DOING IT FOR YEARS. THIS PARTICULAR MODERATOR HAS FAR MORE EXPERIENCE IN THE OUTBOARD REPAIR FIELD THAN I WILL EVER HAVE, AND AS A RESULT, I GAVE IT MORE CREDENCE THAN I NORMALLY WOULD HAVE. HE WAS CAUTIONING AGAINST THE PRACTICE FOR REASONS I MENTIONED EARLIER. IT’S BOTHERED ME EVER SINCE AND YOUR POST PROMPTED ME TO ASK THE QUESTION. THERE IS NO MANUAL OR SERVICE BULLETIN DEALING WITH THE ISSUE AND IN RETROSPECT, IF I HAD A NICKLE FOR EVERY TIME I RAN OUT OF GAS AS A KID WITH AN OUTBOARD, I’D BE A RICH MAN. IF IT DID DAMAGE ANY OF THOSE OLD OUTBOARDS, I NEVER KNEW IT. I THINK I’LL JUST IGNORE THE ADVICE OF THE GURU THAT RAISED THE QUESTION AND GO ABOUT MY WAY THE SAME WAY I ALWAYS HAVE. USE STABIL AND RUN’EM DRY.

[reivertom]

I bought one of these large syringes, and use it for everything. I suck oil from mowers, gas from small tanks, and I use it to refill gear cases, etc. It comes apart and I clean it with brake cleaner if I need to. It’s called the:

Mityvac MVA6851 Fluid Extractor

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPQ8RBG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

• This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by reivertom.

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