Hard to start HA 10 Johnson (1940) 2.5hp

[Monte NZ]

Thanks crosbyman for your reply in suggesting I try O rings, but going on what I have read on our website over the years and confrmed by Lloyd, using the proper leather seals is the only way to cure the primer problem and thanks Lloyd for your offer. At this stage I haven’t a clue here in NZ as to when we will start receiving mail from USA……,I will get in touch when this mail problem is sorted.
Thanks Tubs once again for your input with the ring specs……..I’m thinking that replacement rings would need to be slightly oversize to allow for wear and that I would file the ends down to get the correct end gap on the rings……..does that sound correct to you?

Thanks again
Monte NZ

[crosbyman]

must be something in the leather 🙂 fuel resistant o-rings are use everywhere to seal surfaces, shafts etc… shift rods, driveshafts

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by crosbyman.

[Tubs]

Monte NZ wrote:

Thanks crosbyman for your reply in suggesting I try O rings, but going on what I have read on our website over the years and confrmed by Lloyd, using the proper leather seals is the only way to cure the primer problem and thanks Lloyd for your offer. At this stage I haven’t a clue here in NZ as to when we will start receiving mail from USA……,I will get in touch when this mail problem is sorted.
Thanks Tubs once again for your input with the ring specs……..I’m thinking that replacement rings would need to be slightly oversize to allow for wear and that I would file the ends down to get the correct end gap on the rings……..does that sound correct to you?

Thanks again
Monte NZ

New rings do come slightly bigger and
you must file them down to get
the proper end gap. There must be a
space for the rings to expand as they
heat up. If there isn’t enough space the
rings will bind in the cylinder and any
number of bad things “will” happen.
Cylinders wear more at the top than
at the bottom of the pistons stroke.
This is referred to as taper. When
installing new rings in a worn cylinder
the end gap must be set at the bottom
of the cyl. where there is little or no
wear so when the piston is at the bottom
of its stroke the rings aren’t binding.
Tubs

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Monte NZ]

Yes there is certainly something in the leather crosbyman that does the trick, for the primer seals to functiion properly…… as you said, O rings are used successfully in many applications but not so in this case………many times I have read where guys have tried O rings and they just won’t work.
Thanks once again Tubs for your input. I have filed it for future use……. hopefully after Christmas I will open it up and see what the inside condition is like.
In fitting new rings would .003 end gap be acceptable at the bottom of the bore like your LS-37?
I will keep you all informed of what I find.
In the mean time, I will get back to working on my 1964 3hp Johnson and hopefully get it completed to take it away at Christmas……looking forward to having play with it in the lake!

Thanks once again.

Monte NZ

[crosbyman]

fishing at Christmas…..that hurts 🙁

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

• This reply was modified 3 years, 6 months ago by crosbyman.

[Tubs]

If you can’t find the manufactures specification for a
ring end gap rule of thumb is .003 to .004 for
each inch of the cylinders bore. .005 to .006 would
be what I would shoot for on your motor.

Tubs

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Author]

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