Help identifying and dating a 1920s rowboat motor

[Eric Reutelhuber]

Ignition Plug

[Eric Reutelhuber]

Both of the round 2 prongs in the receiver go to ground (kill switch??) Just seems like an elaborate connector for a ground or kill switch…

[Eric Reutelhuber]

Another view

[Eric Reutelhuber]

Yet another view

[Tom]

The two plug in connectors take a standard 1/4″ phone plug. One is to tap off between 4 and 6 volts to power a handheld spotlight. The other is to put a battery in the primary ignition circuit to help in starting. What you label as having a grounded connection is a socket for a light bulb. The hood, which is similar to the dash light hood in a Model A Ford, is missing on your motor.

T

[Sam M.]

Tubs wrote:

Something you should know about museums. They will take most any donation you offer. Then decide if they want to keep it or not. I have a friend that volunteers at one. He contacted me because they asked if he knew anyone that would be interested in some outboards they want to get rid of. I got them for $50.00 a piece. Be better to find someone, like Sam, whose young, interest in the early stuff, and most likely doesn’t have much to spend. He would love to have it.  

Tubs, you are absolutely right!  I would love to have it! 😂

Say, Rudy, if you ever go on a trip up further north, maybe we could work something out… 😉  And good on ya for saving it from demolition!

[Tubs]

Eric Reutelhuber wrote:

Ok, I have some disassembly and have more questions.

Firstly, I am not sure if this motor was run very much at all. See the below picts of how clean everything is (intake and carb) and it has not been serviced or anything else that the previous owner can ever recall. It has been in storage (basements and garages) for over 70+ years. All the bolts (including spark plugs) came out relatively easily and without penetrating oil. Highly unusual, at least for me with old outdoor equipment.

I have continuity and resistance (2.3 and 2.5) across coils. Points look clean and not pitted; move easily. Sparkplug (Champion OCOM) electrodes look cleaner and better that the ones I pulled out of my mower this season after two years of service.

Good storage preserves a motor for a long time. Bad storage can ruin a nice motor.  When you look inside the muffler, that will give you some idea how much its been run.  

 

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Eric Reutelhuber]

Thanks Tom. That helps some. Still confused about the Ingress and Egress of the 6v from your description about the 6v to assist with starting. Is the Ingress the 6v from battery the 1/4 inch “IGN” plug or is it the left prong below pict? That prong has continuity to the coil too. If the Ingress is the 1/4 in “IGN” does the tip and sleeve cover the GND and the POS DC?

[Eric Reutelhuber]

and one last question for now…would an “X” at the end of a Serial Number, given that this motor is stamped “DEMONSTRATOR,” the further indicate that it was a factory or dealer showcase model or experimental? Or is that common on all old Evinrude Serial numbers from the era? See pict below

Thanks!

Rudy

[Tubs]

Eric Reutelhuber wrote:

and one last question for now…would an “X” at the end of a Serial Number, given that this motor is stamped “DEMONSTRATOR,” the further indicate that it was a factory or dealer showcase model or experimental? Or is that common on all old Evinrude Serial numbers from the era? See pict below

Thanks!

Rudy

I understand that indicates the motor was rebuilt by Evinrude .

 

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Author]

Posts