Home Forum Ask A Member Help removing lower unit 1985 evinrude 6hp

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  • #216929
    seamsea
    Participant

      I have a model # E6RCOB 6hp evinrude that I need or want to change the water pump in. Removed the prop and the 3 bolts in the gearcase that lets the unit drop down 1/8″ but it wont pull off. Cant find any instructions on removal and I dont want to force anything. Can someone give me some clue as to what I need to do to remove?

      Thanks
      Claude McMorris

      #216933
      David Bartlett
      Participant

        US Member

        There’s a roll-pin at the top of the driveshaft that needs to line up with a slot to drop down. Rotate the flywheel a bit and try again. When you get things lined up it will drop right out.

        David Bartlett
        Pine Tree Boating Club Chapter

        "I don't fully understand everything I know!"

        #216944
        fleetwin
        Participant

          US Member

          Is this a fresh or salt water engine??
          First, shift the engine into forward gear…
          There is no roll pin on top of this driveshaft, it does not have the same lower crankcase seal set up as older engines
          The gearcase should pull down now, there is no shift rod connector like typical OMC models.
          The water tube may be stuck in the rubber impeller housing grommet, which will require a little more effort to pull apart
          Unfortunately, it is very difficult to find a place to “pry the gearcase down and off” due to the plastic seal housing on top of the gearcase, so you will need to be careful when prying downwards with a screwdriver.
          Finally, if this is a salt water engine, the driveshaft/crankshaft splines may be rusted/seized together holding the driveshaft and crankshaft together. So, you will have to decide how far you want to go with this project, you may want to leave it alone. If you pry hard enough, you will pop the driveshaft out of the gearcase, and the gearcase will pull down leaving the driveshaft stuck up inside the crankshaft. Once this has happened there is no way to reassemble the unit without pulling the powerhead off and getting the driveshaft out of there somehow. Please know that new/used driveshafts for this engine are tough to find in good condition, nice ones will cost plenty.
          Am hoping this is a fresh water engine, and the water tube is just stuck in the impeller housing.

          #216970
          seamsea
          Participant

            It is a freshwater engine. Barely looks used. how much pressure should I put on it. Do not want to ruin the motor. It was from the estate of a 1960’s singer.
            Thanks
            Claude

            #216979
            billw
            Participant

              US Member

              I guess it depends on your mechanical ability and patience level. Like Don says, if you force it too much and the drive shaft is stuck in the upper spline area, the poop is gonna hit the fan, fast and hard. You might damage the stainless cup that the impeller rides in, causing it to have a problem it didn’t have in the first place. To play it safe, here is what I would do.Tilt the motor up and make sure it is securely fastened to a boat or outboard stand, so it won’t/can’t fall over. Then, just pull on the lower unit with all your might, but don’t PRY anything, yet. If it’s just the water tube grommet holding it, you’ll be able to break that free. If the drive shaft is holding it, you probably won’t damage the impeller cup, by just pulling. That gives you the option to just put the lower unit back on and walk away….

              Long live American manufacturing!

              #216980
              fleetwin
              Participant

                US Member

                Listen to Bill, although it sounds like the engine is in like new condition/fresh water, so am guessing it is just the stiff grommet holding the water tube into the impeller housing.
                Has the gearcase moved downward at all? Are you sure all the gearcase bolts have been removed? Like you said, there are two bolts facing upwards towards the rear of the gearcase, and one facing down towards the skeg at the front of the exhaust housing.
                Make sure the gearshift is in forward before removing the gearcase. This won’t affect being able to remove the gearcase, it will just make it easier to reinstall it.
                Post some pictures if that will help us understand what you are dealing with….D

                #216992
                seamsea
                Participant

                  It drops down about 1/8 inch. Will have to get pictures this afternoon. Should I just pull or twist as I pull. motor has just about all the paint left on it so probably not used much.
                  Thanks for the suggestions. I have not tried to start it. Would starting it and putting it in forward then reverse maybe break it free???? Is there a video I can look at anywhere that would help?

                  Claude McMorris

                  #216993
                  fleetwin
                  Participant

                    US Member

                    Starting and stopping the engine probably won’t help, but it might soften the grommet a bit, I guess it’s worth a try….Be sure to put the bolts back in first and run it in a test tank with the water level over the gearcase/exhaust housing joint…
                    Once it is warmed up, try again immediately.
                    It only comes down 1/8″…
                    You don’t want to twist it too much, that will only bend the water tube up, but you really cant twist it much with that plastic upper cover in the way anyway.
                    It is hard to advise without seeing or being there. You may want to try prying just a little bit with a big screwdriver on either end of the gearcase. The gearcase won’t “give” at all if the driveshaft splines are seized. But, if the gearcase seems to come down a bit, then springs back up when pressure is release, this would indicate that it is just the grommet holding the water tube in place.
                    Again, you don’t want to pry very hard…There is no way to remove and straighten the water tube without pulling the powerhead… And, as I mentioned before, if the driveshaft is seized, prying down too hard will pop the driveshaft out of the impeller housing. This will require powerhead removal also, getting seized driveshaft/crank situations apart is a gamble at best.
                    I am only “slightly encouraging” you to pry a bit based on your description of a low hour/fresh water engine, which makes a seized driveshaft splines must less likely…
                    Again, post some good pictures so we can see the engine and what is going on….D

                    #217014
                    seamsea
                    Participant

                      OK it came off. No instructions on the Water pump install. It looks OK but may as well do it. Kit came with a small O-ring would it go on the shaft below the plate under the water pump or would it go at the top of the shaft. I see no old o-ring or residue from where it was.
                      Thanks
                      Claude

                      #217016
                      fleetwin
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        Claude
                        Your engine does not use the small oring on top of the driveshaft, so that one will not be used. Is this an OMC/OEM water pump kit? Be sure to use the silver packet of “moly lube” on the sides of the driveshaft splines to make sure they don’t seize in the future. It is a good idea to pull this gearcase off once a year to lube those splines if you will be using the engine in salt water to help ensure the splines never seize together. Make sure you orient the impeller fins correctly, or it may be damaged when the engine is running.
                        Glad the splines were not an issue. You may want to sand down the end of the water tube and grease it up to make sure it slides in and out of that grommet easily also…

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