Help with 1957 Johnson (RD19) 35 hp Remote Conversions

[chinewalker]

Did someone say 1000 Islands? I may have some, or most of the parts you need to finish your conversion… Drop me a PM. I’m in Fishers Landing…

[luvmyrd19]

Problem: Pics show the flywheel I am attempting to pull from my donor motor. Is this the correct flywheel for my RD19? The reason I ask is that there are three small holes (approx 1/8") that are used to mount the "spline" mounted on the top of the flywheel (shown above). Those holes are the only ones in the flywheel and are less than half the diameter of the bolts on my puller, which says to me that I should drill new holes in the flywheel and tap them before I try to pull the flywheel.
Need some guidance here please! This does not appear to me to be a good way to try to pull the flywheel. Perhaps the donor motor (which is NOT an electric start motor) has another flywheel mounted that is improper for RD19? Thanks!

[frankr]

Whoa there!! Don’t be drilling and tapping. Those are 1/4-20 threads, just what the flywheel puller uses. If using your own bolts, get 1/4-20 GRADE-8 bolts (high strength).

[Anonymous]

What is your donor??

If you don’t have the parts diagram, here’s one:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … neto+Group

As you know (from what you’re doing), parts get swapped around…
Sometimes electric start flywheels are put on non-electric engines….

It looks like same flywheel part number was used 1957-1959.
The part number was superceeded, but *NOT* to the same number as the 1960-61 flywheel.

Hopefully Frank (or someone else) can tell you if there are parts that _look_ right, but won’t work!

[frankr]

The tapers are the same, but I’m reasonably sure they have different keyways, the ’60 being shorter. Get them side by side and the difference will be obvious.

[luvmyrd19]

Guys, Thanks for the diagram. Comparing it to my flywheel on my donor motor, it appears exactly the same, so it appears that I have the right flywheel assembly. I have no experience at this, and was surprised when the flywheel wasn’t just one molded (or machined) part, but rather a complete assembly of many parts. I do appear to be missing the lockwasher (2) and the "cover" (5). I do not see these parts after removing the nut, etc.
Given that this appears to be the right flywheel, then why would the bolts holes to pull the flywheel be so small? Can I trust that if I find 2-3" long bolts 1/8" in dia to fit the existing holes for my "puller", they won’t just break when under the strain of removing the flywheel? I’m a little afraid to try without further assurance I am doing the right thing.
😳

[luvmyrd19]

BTW – the Donor is an identical 1957 RD19 motor, just that the donor has a toothed flywheel while my restored motor does not.

[frankr]

I just told you that they are 1/4 inch bolt holes. And no they won’t break if you use 1/4-20 Grade-8 high strength bolts. But if you use the cheap grade 3 bolts from the discount store they certainly will break.

In case you still doubt, consider they used those same bolt holes for about 30 years. Your flywheels will come off easy, compared to the 1962-up 40hp. Now those are the toughies.

[chris-p]

Thread the 1/4-20 bolts in 7/16" deep into the flywheel, and evenly. You want to pull straight up on it. The depth is important, as is the grade 8. Too cheap a bolt, it will break, making a mess. Same if you don’t go deep enough in, you will pull the threads out, creating a mess. That can happen even when doing it properly, but minimize the odds, and ensure your grade 8 1/4-20 bolts are 7/16" deep.

BTW, don’t go too deep, or you could damage a coil.

[chris-p]

Regarding what Frank said above, I had a large crank 40hp, think it was a ’63. It was on there good! I have an OEM puller kit, which normally makes short work of any flywheel. Not this one. I had a 4′ breaker bar on it to get her to pop!

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