Home › Forum › Ask A Member › help with 1996 15 hhp Johnson 4 stroke
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hugh.
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July 13, 2017 at 3:03 pm #7631
Trying to help a friend of a friend. J15FREDR How do you disconect the shift rod to remove the lower unit? Start button and battery wire is missing. Start button is not available. Trying to find a wiring diagram for this so I can make something up for it but can’t find where the switch hooks up. I’m too old for this motor 😆 😆 😆
July 13, 2017 at 6:03 pm #61541Looks like from this Marineengine diagram, that it just disconnects via a 3.8" bolt that appears after you take the 6 lower unit bolts out and drop the LU down about 1/2" to access the bolt. The bolt is now located in between the LU and the exhaust tower. Take the bolt completely out and it should drop down. It’s pretty simple. When re-installing, be sure to look with a light into the hole to make sure your holes are lined up where the 3/8" bolt came out, so you don’t cross thread it and strip it. The water tube is kinda "self guiding" so should go in pretty easily, but take a flashlight and look in there upon reassembly at the last minute just to make sure it’s stabbed the hole.
About the wiring, I myself am ignorant on the subject, but we have some real geniuses here on aomci that will be along shortly…
Good luck, lots of help here on aomci, don’t be afraid to ask should you need further help. We are all in this hobby together, and eager to help!
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … n=Gearcase
July 13, 2017 at 7:29 pm #61546I have the l/u down about 3/4 and can see up and down rod another inch or more. no coupling like the diagram. Got me stuck. Hope I don’t have to unhook the upper end at the shifter as it will be tough to do, but may be the method??
July 13, 2017 at 9:16 pm #61552Is this a long shaft, or short shaft engine? The model number indicates it is a short shaft, but someone could have converted it easily enough…
If it is a long shaft, you must remove the 6 bolts that secure the 5" extension housing to the exhaust housing…Pull the gearcase/extension assembly down a bit to expose the shift rod connector….July 13, 2017 at 9:54 pm #61559It is still a short shaft.
July 15, 2017 at 4:16 pm #61656OK I have worked on larger OMC’s of that brand and vintage, and they unhook under the powerhead. DO NOT TAKE YOUR POWERHEAD OFF.
Grab the shifter, work it back and forth whilst looking under the front of the powerhead in the lower pan in front. You will see the shifter shaft move where it is hooked up.
I forget exactly since it’s been awhile, but you can see a bolt (on the starboard right side)that needs undone and I think the shaft holding the shift connector slides to the side to release the connector.
Sorry I cannot be of more help.
July 15, 2017 at 5:36 pm #61660OK, sorry to have misled you….
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … n=Gearcase
These four stroke gearcases do not have a conventional shift rod connector. The shift rod goes all the way up into the bottom of the motor pan where it is secured to the bellcrank with a clip…
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johns … +Crankcase
I believe the shift rod bellcrank is item #80July 17, 2017 at 2:15 am #61729Hay thanks, Fleetwin and Doug. I was thinking I had something that had been converted. I am waiting for an adapter for 12 mm plugs to insure the compression is good before continuing on with it. It got so hot it melted the dipstick when he ran it in the barrel for the first time in 4 or 5 years. I don’t think it hurt it but want to be sure first. Can’t buy a dipstick or start switch for it either, unless I find a used one. It always amazes me how you can’t get parts for these "old" motors 😆 😆 😆
July 17, 2017 at 3:23 pm #61747Yeah, the four stroke stuff kind of got dropped and forgotten about when BRP took over OMC. I hope the engine is OK, make sure the head gasket isn’t cooked…I will keep my eyes open for a dipstick and start switch…D
July 17, 2017 at 9:00 pm #61758I’m good on the start switch now, but no dipstick. When I put the proper amount of oil in it, I can check the full level. Still have the upper part of the dipstick to plug the hole, just melted the bottom off. I am waiting for an adapter for the plug hole for my comp gauge to come in the mail today. then I can make a plan.
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