I have a couple questions on an Evinrude Speeditwin

[bsplit]

I recently picked up a 22.5hp Evinrude Speeditwin. I tried starting it about a month ago when the weather was warmer here in Michigan. It had spark, but wouldn’t fire…a real bear to turn over.

I checked the compression yesterday, and got 100psi on the starboard cylinder and 107 psi on the port side. Is this okay?

Also, how do you remove the flywheel? It doesn’t have the typical hex nut.

Thanks,
Jim

[PM T2]

Your compression is more than strong enough to run well.

Take the rope sheave off and use a conventional puller to remove the flywheel (after the flywheel nut is off).

Jay Walls pointed out to me last spring that these things loved to be heavily primed prior to attempted starting. Too much priming is almost never enough. I was pumping the primer button 6-8 times and got it so it would fire up easily enough. Using the rope to bounce it back & forth between compression then timing your pull just right makes it a tad easier to rope it through compression.

Hope this helps.

PM T2

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

[bsplit]

Thanks for the help. I checked the plugs for spark by placing the plugs against the block while pulling the starter rope, and had spark on both plugs. I then sprayed Gibbs into both cylinders and tried several times to get it to fire….with no luck. It’s too cold here in Michigan to play with it now…I will wait until the weather warms in the Spring.

Thanks,
Jim

[david-bartlett]

Bsplit,

I have a SpeediTwin also, and this summer I was running it and it backfired so bad that it sheared both the shear pin and the flywheel key. I didn’t know it at the time so I replaced the shear pin and tried to start it but no luck. Just occaisional backfire.

My point is you may want to check your flywheel key, and flywheel orientation on the crank to make sure your timing isn’t way off. The timing lever gives a lot of range, but not enough when I sheared the key.

If you remove your flywheel, be sure to get the nut torqued back properly!

[George Emmanuel]

I’ll echo PM-T2’s comment. Sometimes when you are priming nothing gets into the crankcase. The fuel level in the primer’s bowl is critical. If it is low, you can pump all day with nothing happening. That fuel level is dependent on the main float level.

George

[garry-in-michigan]

The flywheel nut is usually easy to remove with an open end wrench. A sharp blow with a heavy hammer will knock it loose as the inertia of the heavy flywheel will keep it from turning. A "crows foot" socket at a 90 degree angle to the left (So pulling on the torque wrench will hold it against the nut) and a strap wrench will let you torque the nut to the required 75 the 80 Foot Pounds.

Bouncing the flywheel back and fourth with the starter rope against compression gives you a flying start when you crank the opposed twins and makes the Speeditwin much easier to start than the Speedifour (without a compression release) or Big Four. (Stacked Speeditwins) . . . 😀

[bsplit]

Thanks all for the help…..

Jim

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