I have a weird boat trailer

[kevinrude]

So, I bought an old boat and accompanying boat trailer about 10 years ago. Neither one is anything fancy, but the boat floats, the trailer rolls and the price was right.

Anyway, flash forward to today and it is time to change the trailer tires. The lug nuts, unsurprisingly, were a little tight so I hit them with PB Blaster for a few days before attempting to take them off. I removed them last night and, much to my surprise, the tires were not being held on by lug nuts at all but by BOLTS! I was expecting lug nuts threaded on to studs but what is actually there are bolts threaded directly on to the back plate.

A few questions as a result of this discovery:

(1) Is this set up common for boat trailers? The trailer is strange in another way in that the springs are the coil-type as opposed to the more common leaf-type. I kind of feel like I have a weird set up here.

(2) Any idea how much torque I should be using to put the bolts back on (I cannot identify the make of the trailer to look up any specs — the tires are 4-bolt, 4" center, 16"ers if that helps)? There is not a nut/lock washer combo, just the back plate, so I want to (obviously) make sure that when I put the bolts back on they stay on.

(3) There was a discussion last year about anti-seize compound on trailer lugs and which one, if any, to use. What should I be doing here? Obviously, I don’t want the bolts to seize but, and maybe more importantly, I don’t want them to come off either. Do I want to use an anti-seize compound? If so, which one? As I recall the past discussion the choices were Jet Marine Anti-Seize Compound vs. Green Grease. The former being marine grade but containing metals which may cause corrosion whereas the latter would not cause corrosion but maybe was not marine grade.

Thanks.

[david-bartlett]

Kevin,

Very common to have bolts. My Holsclaw trailer is like that.

I use Never seize on mine. Makes for a much more pleasant tire changing experience.

As for torque, I have no recommendation for you. I put mine on "tight".

[auldscott]

The VW Beetle used bolts, as did many earlier vehicles both domestic and foreign. The problem with them is locating the wheel to start the first bolt; if you don’t have a close fitting hub you chase the bolt hole until you finally catch it right. That, and if the hub threads strip, you can’t just replace the stud. Even so, it all works, and there’s no compelling reason not to leave your trailer as is.

I have been using 30 weight motor oil on car, truck, and trailer wheel studs or bolts for 40+ years and have never had one loosen (nor seize). Have never had alloy wheels, which perhaps should be torqued, so I just tighten them tight with a small 4-way lug wrench.

[wbeaton]

Bolts are common. So are coil springs on old trailers. I actually prefer coil springs with shock absorbers to leaf springs. Sometimes I use oil or anti-seize and sometimes I don’t. My hubs come off for inspection and bearing service every few years so I haven’t encountered a problem. I use 80 ft/lbs of torque. I think that’s a standard, but I could be wrong.

Wayne
Upper Canada Chapter

uccaomci.com

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

I have been wrong before but a bolt is a bolt, torque specs are generally set for the bolt, so as to have maximum holding power without over stressing the bolt. That being said, this chart should answer your question as to how much torque for the specific bolt size AND thread type, ( course/fine)

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-info … orque.aspx

Cheers

Richard

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[jerry-ahrens]

Agreed, nothing to worry about. I have a couple pontoon trailers that have bolts vs. studs. I cuss mine a little when I have to change a tire, as stated earlier, but they work just fine. as for the coil springs, you will get a much better ride vs a leaf spring trailer.
Coil springs are old school, but work very well. As for the lug nuts, I zip mine on with an impact, or just use a 4 way and tighten them by hand. With an air impact, just don’t get crazy with it… if it’s a Chinese cheapy, it probably won’t get them that tight anyway.

[sydinnj]

You want to see a crazy trailer, it is home made using a front cross member from a ford truck but the best part was that they used two different years for the wheel assembly which means that it is different size bearings. Do not ask how I know, but I will never forget. The ride is fantastic.

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[Steve A W]

Get a couple 3" long bolts the same thread as the lug bolts.
Cut the heads off and cut a slot in the cut off end.
Thread them into the lug holes and slide the wheels on and the lug
bolts will line up.
Easy Peasy ❗

Steve A W

Member of the MOB chapter.
I live in Northwest Indiana

[dave-bernard]

I used bolts from the back of the hub then use lug nuts . wont come out.

[PugetSoundBoater]

Wow Kevinrude,you have a very good memory. I am the one who posted about the Jet Lube Non Metallic Marine Grade Anti Seize ,at least a year ago. Think i ordered it online from Fastenal. I use it for my trailer wheel bolts . Use it every now and then on bolts on the motors too.
But have mostly switched to BRP gasket sealer on the outboard bolts on many recommendations here. It sure is messy though.
Any good waterproof grease or anti seize on the trailer wheel bolts should be fine. Of course we should check those bolts for proper torque ,tire pressure etc every now and again.
It really doesn’t sound like a weird trailer , just old school,they did things differently back then.
Jim PSB

"Some people want to know how a watch works, others just want to know what time it is"
Robbie Robertson

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