Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Identify Ruddertwin Powerhead?
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PM T2.
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January 23, 2026 at 9:52 am #303765January 23, 2026 at 9:55 am #303769January 23, 2026 at 9:58 am #303772
Thanks for wandering into the bushes with me here. I recognize this is a challenging task to ID this particular powerhead. I’m trying to help a member who wants to put one of these together.
January 23, 2026 at 11:49 am #303773PM,
I also have a model F#1745. On the tilt bracket, do you know what the hole is for in between the transom clamps? Mine is also empty, but threaded
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin F
1950 Mercury KF-7
1951 Mercury KG-7
1959 Mercury Mark 6AJanuary 23, 2026 at 11:55 am #303774I once had a 1926 model G but its long gone. I can tell you the carb might be for a G because its the twin poppet valve. The crankcase doesn’t have the cutout cast into it where the air intake for the carb fits into but I have to look further into it to figure out of they did that for 1926. I know they did the air intake pocket for the 1927 Model J and K. That carb may or not fit the crankcase, you’ll have to bolt it up to find out, but I’m thinking it won’t.
Timer looks right for a G with that wider paddle type handle on the end of it.
I’d say its looking like you have most of a model C with some G parts laying along with it, because of the flywheel configuration (flat with the knob sticking well above it) and the tower section (no vents cut in the side of the leg). Tank is likely off a C and without a nameplate, a semi-educated guess is all anybody can really give you as to a true identity. Hollow rudder, so no water pump. It looks like they used the steering bar off a G because it has the small rope pulleys in it, which the C did not. So, the I’d say its a 1924-25 model C that is incomplete and end with “hope it helps”.
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
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January 23, 2026 at 11:57 am #303775PM,
I also have a model F#1745. On the tilt bracket, do you know what the hole is for in between the transom clamps? Mine is also empty, but threaded
Aiden the threaded hole you speak of is for a setscrew that is used to adjust the tilt angle in or out. It fits entirely inside that hole so that the threads are not exposed. I can probably fish one out if you need an image or dimensions to copy it.
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...
January 23, 2026 at 12:25 pm #303776Looks like the motor is a C. Model G is the only other one I know of with the hollow rudder and the model G has two little fin-like projections on the bottom of the skeg that your motor does not have. The carb looks like a model g to me but I could be wrong. Dont know if the timer changed between C and G, but it looks similar to the two C timers I have looked at.
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
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January 25, 2026 at 8:31 pm #303886I have a model J Super Elto with a hollow rudder. I’m looking for a “C” now. Fun motors
"Shells sink, dreams float. Life's good on our boat."
1921 Elto Light Twin F
1950 Mercury KF-7
1951 Mercury KG-7
1959 Mercury Mark 6AJanuary 25, 2026 at 9:36 pm #303887I agree with the others in that your motor is a 1924-25 model C, with a collection if additional parts. A lot can happen over 100 years.
Wayne
Upper Canada Chapteruccaomci.com
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January 25, 2026 at 10:08 pm #303890The gas tank is not a model c, which has rounded corners. Likely an F or no serial number. I have enjoyed my model c that is 100 percent all-original with the exception for a new fuel filter under the gas tank, and still runs on the original ignition. I recently traded my other model c that I did not get around to fixing. They are fun motors. As PmT2 said, the steering arm is probably off the model G as the c does not have the pulleys. The flywheel nut is not original (or broken) but would work for functionality. With a new carb(you might be able to use the G carb you have), a timer, lower unit parts to make it complete, a gas cap, and a redone ignition coil, you should get a running motor. I would have had a couple of these parts but they were all sold or traded off within the last few weeks. Bad timing for you in that regards I guess….but I’m sure that you could find another parts motor for relatively cheap at some point.
"Outboards seem to multiply exponentially..........I find that for every finished project, there are two more waiting to be completed."
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