Ignition switch difference

[Chris]

Hello!
I recently bought a brass ignition switch with the chrome nut on outside. It does not have the "I" post on the back, it only has the "A", "M", a "B", a "SOL", and a "G".

The switch I’m replacing has 2 "M"s (same as M+G) and the A, B, S, but also an "I".

Here’s the issue – my old setup has a separate starter push button.

With this new setup, with no "I" post, the starter button has to be connected direct to the "B" and "SOL". That basically bypasses the key function, and the motor will start with no key in ignition.

Is there a way to wire this up for "key on" push button start?

[frankr]

The question pops to my mind, why do you feel you need a separate starter button? Why not simply wire the key switch as intended and start it by turning the key to the "Start" position?

But if you insist on a separate start button, try connecting it to the "A" and "Sol" terminals. Depending on the internal design of the switch, it may or may not work that way..

[Chris]

Well, quite simply, I like a starter button. I find it handy when putting a skier in and out of the water. Really just a style thing.

[Chris]

Oh, and thank you. I will try the A and Sol

[Chris]

The A and Sol did not work.
The way I’m getting around this is to use a kill switch (leash). That will be the theft prevention, and not a bad thing to have anyway on a 14 foot boat with 50hp. 😉

Hole was already in the dash for the starter button, and I hate buttons that don’t function, so, this will work.

[dave-bernard]

make the dash button a horn button. And use the switch.

[Author]

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