Impeller change Buccaneer 12D10

[billy-t]

This motor is challenging my limited mechanic skills. I actually got the carb back on and the motor running decently thanks to your help on the carburetor, so thank you very much for that.

I now wanted to change the impeller and thought that it might not be too hard of a job. My question is that according to my manual it says i have to remover the five screws that hold the exhaust tube to the upper pump housing. But that wont remove it, do i also have to remove the four screws to release the exhaust tube from the power head. I thought i would try that and of course two spin out no problem and the other two wont budge. have hit them with a impact screw driver and few times and still nothing. Dont want to pursue that avenue if it is not what i need to do.

Any help would be appreciated once again.

Thanks

Bill

[frankr]

Yes, you have to remove the exhaust tube, and yes that means you have to remove the screws from the powerhead. Once the exhaust tube is off, remove the clevis pin from the top of the shift rod, loosen the jam nut at the link, and unscrew the shift rod from the link. At least that’s the way I remember it. It’s been awhile

[billy-t]

Thanks Frank got the third one out with heat but no good luck with the last one, gave up for tonight. Going to strip the head off the damn screw. need to take it to a friend who has more skill!

[jeff-register]

What kind of heat are you using? Maybe use a small torch & heat around the screw. Way back we had a car repair business. We would get the exhaust manifold red hot, then the broken stud would come out screeching all the way out. Then run a tap to clean up the threads. PLEASE do not get it that hot but a small torch might help. Heat the threads only if you can. Just a suggestion & be careful with the heat.

[billy-t]

Hi Jeff
I was just using a hand held propane torch, applied heat but did not want to heat it too much either. My fear was that I would damage the slot before I get it to turn. Walked away for a while while I consider my options. The dang thing is too big and bulky for an anchor!

Unfortunately there is no exposed threads, just the screw heads and not much room for anything other than a screw driver, although I might try a small set of vice grips to try and budge it.

[1946zephyr]

Yea, they were not very simple to change, unfortunately. One of those that had a lot of salt water use, is a huge nightmare to pull apart. The earlier QD’s and Fastwins, the same thing. Infact that powerhead on your motor was used on the ’50 – ’52 Fastwin, but some minor mechanical differences. So, if anythings breaks, you have a couple options.

[billy-t]

Well took it to a buddy who is far more handy than i am. he applied a little more heat and an impact driver and eventually it came. We did think we might have to cut it off. I think i will get some different screws to put it back together.

Frank it came apart exactly like you remembered. Thanks for the pointers. Now i have a decent running 1953 Viking with a tight gear case and new impeller, this weekend might even see the lake.

one last question the carb notes from the manual say half turn out for slow and high speed, does not talk about fine tuning under load. is that it all done?

Thanks again for the help would not have likely got it without the help from you guys here.

happy motoring.

[frankr]

As with any motor, preliminary settings are just that. They must be readjusted on the boat on the lake. Run at full throttle and set high speed needle to where it runs the best, then slow down and repeat with the slow speed needle. You are shooting for as lean as possible without losing power, then back toward rich just a tweak.

[billy-t]

Thanks thought that was likely the case.

There is a mountain of stuff i will likely never know.

[Author]

Posts