Johnson 1949 HD 25 No Spark

[crosbyman]

you are  infected… the game here is to fix refurb reincarnate these oldies and that is the fun part in learning how they work… then you have to find another to fix.. then another …..then another….

now join up !!

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[TiIngot]

I’m laughing.  Yes, I’m infected.  It’s the challenge of not being outsmarted by a simple motor.  This outboard is the only one I will be working on.  My neighbor gave it to me 30 some years ago and now I want to give it back to his son.

For the last five years my infection has been riding lawn mowers.  I bought one scrap one for $25 and got hooked.  Now, 13 mowers later I have spare parts in the garage, shed and basement.  Of the 13 I ended up fully scrapping two and donated the other 11 and sold none.  It’s the process of fixing them.  Can’t work on the cars anymore without a degree so these old machines fill the gap.

It is amazing what people throw away.  Most of them are scrapped for simple lack of or incorrect maintenance.  In the process I have graduated summa cum laude from the school of YouTube.  Everything you need is out there.  All you have to do is look for it.

Retired titanium melt shop manager. (Think about me next time you fly in a window seat and look at the engines spinning below the wings!)

[crosbyman]

well look at the bright side  you don’y have to find a boat for every motor you  fix…just  find extra grass to cut 🙂  🙂

Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂

[Tubs]

My daughter was offered this nearly 50 year old John Deere, model 312, last fall. Been passed around my wife’s side of the family since new. I guess its her turn now. Hadn’t run in years. Needed a battery and a new starter.  The carb has damage from the last person that worked on it. I was lucky to save it. Wiring was a disaster.  In spite of being abused and neglected the hydraulics for the plow still work and it seems to still run well. I found the lever drive hard to use. Wants to creep in neutral some times. I believe the break pedal is suppose to disengage the drive but it doesn’t work. Short video. https://youtu.be/zV321vBFK_0?si=HlMF9TliSz9FSP9k

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Bob Wight]

That tractor looks to be in really good condition for being 50 years old.

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[Buccaneer]

Got my HD-25 magneto back together today, and thought
I’d share this video in checking the kill circuit.

https://youtu.be/mHWvXYPbb8w

Testing that the circuit is working correctly, and nothing is grounded.
When working correctly, when the brass contact on the bottom is pushed
against the insulated post, the two wires that go to each set of points
should have continuity to each other, and not the mag plate itself.
When the kill wires are hooked up to the point sets, the circuit kills
the engine by grounding both circuits to each other.

 

Prepare to be boarded!

[TiIngot]

The Deere has not been rejuvenated bit restored!!  Looking great.  My longest-term project is my father’s 1966 Ariens Sno Thro.  He bought it in the spring of 1967 when I left for college and lost his snow thrower in the move.  I use it once or twice every winter when the snow is too heavy for the Toro.  Nothing I have is new except my Honda mower which is now 12 years old or more.  People scrap them and I fix them.

Retired titanium melt shop manager. (Think about me next time you fly in a window seat and look at the engines spinning below the wings!)

[TiIngot]

I cannot post pics here because my iPhone resolution makes them over 2 MB.  I have not removed the kill switch because I think the insulators within it are falling apart.  On the top side under the kill switch nut where the two condenser wires go mine looks like, top to bottom, the nut on top, condenser wire, insulator, second condenser wire, insulator then magneto plate.  The two condenser wires have an insulator between them so in the stop position only one wire goes to ground.  My logic thinks insulator on bottom, then both wires next, then the top insulator and the nut last.

Am I correct?

Retired titanium melt shop manager. (Think about me next time you fly in a window seat and look at the engines spinning below the wings!)

[Sam M.]

TiIngot wrote:

I cannot post pics here because my iPhone resolution makes them over 2 MB.

There are lots of ways to reduce the image size that are easy once one is farmillar with how they work, though they can be difficult to think of on one’s own.  For cell phones, I have found it easiest to Whatsapp the photos to someone and have them Whatsapp them back to you.  Then upload the photos you were sent back to your AOMCI post.  The returned photos will be considerably smaller in file size than the originals.

[Tubs]

By Toro do you mean a S-200? Mine is about the same age as the 312 tractor. My drive is 45X60, but I can get it done if the snow isn’t over 4″ and isn’t too wet. Any more than that and my neighbor comes over and plows me out. Its still good for getting what he cant, and what the state pushes back in. You can still get most of the parts to keep one going. Besides my old outboards. I get a lot of satisfaction using old stuff for what it was made for.  

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Author]

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