Johnson CD 10 Shock Absorber question

[greg-o]

I recently acquired an pretty nice CD 10 Johnson. It needed the normal stuff like coils, water pump etc. While installing the bearing housing below the water pump, it would not seat flat on the housing, there was about 1/16" gap. I pulled out the shock absorber, and with a dead blow hammer tapped the end of it. It moved with very little effort. I looked inside, and could not tell if the spring was broken. My question is, Is this shock absorber likely broken and needs to be replaced or welded, or can I go ahead and put it back together? Like I said, it did not take much to move it the 1/16" to the bearing housing would sit tight on the housing. I have welded these before, but this one seemed to move so easy, I hate to weld a good shock.

Thanks for the advice.

Greg O

[garry-in-michigan]

If it tapped back together easily, it’s probably OK. Those with broken springs are usually rusty and may require twisting to go back together for welding.

[greg-o]

The motor does apear to be a very low hour motor. The carburetor throttle lever and cam show no wear, and the power head screws had never been removed. So it makes sense the spring would not be broken.

Thanks Garry

[frankr]

I dunno, I feel that if it moved easily, it is broken. That spring is under great tension and should not be sliding easily. If it slides easily it will spin easily. I’ll bet you can grab it in your hands and twist & pull it apart (not good). Just my opinion.

[1946zephyr]

If you have it apart, have it tack welded 1/4 inch at each of the 4 quadrants and that will prevent any future possibilities of that nature. Don’t let those grenade out, because they often take out the upper bearing as well. Between those two items, you will be into some bucks. You will have to make sure the length is correct, before you do, so the upper bearing will have more longevity.

[Mumbles]

I agree, it shouldn’t compress easily but needs some brute force to get it back to its original 6 11/16" size. I have hammered them down but prefer to use the twelve ton press. I’m sure there would be a given torque value for when they should release, the same as there is for a rubber hubbed propeller, but I’ve never been able to find it.

[frankr]

It’s listed in an old Evinrude Service Manual (1960 era). 155-225 Inch Pounds. Now for some practical way of holding it and applying torque.

[Mumbles]

Thanks Frank.

I’ve spun them with a pipe wrench before but with that information, I’m getting motivated now to make a special socket for the torque wrench! 😀

[greg-o]

Thanks everyone for the great information. I actually had the shock back in the lower unint, and pulled it back out just to check it more closely. It actually measures 6 13/16", about an 1/8′ long. However the bearing housing sits flush, and the shock assembly had a little end play. I tried to tap it on a block of wood and a dead blow hammer, but it would not move anymore. I think I am going to put it in a vice and squeeze it to 6 3/4 then weld it. And install a brass pin in the prop. My brother is going to be using this motor in central Florida, mostly sandy bottom lakes. He will just have to avoid logs.

Thanks again for the great information.

[Mumbles]

It seems strange your shock would have end play measuring 6 13/16 as they usually start to rub at 6 3/4. Does yours still have the thrust washer on it? Any signs of rubbing on the bottom of the bearing housing?

---

Attachments:

[Author]

Posts