Home Forum Ask A Member Johnson HD-25 running issues

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  • #6796
    Buccaneer
    Participant

      US Member

      I’ve gone thru three HD-25’s.
      #1 was my best hope of a good running 2-1/2 hp Johnson,
      as it has 77 psi compression top and bottom.
      The other two have 65 ish compression, and just don’t
      want to idle.
      I’ve had the mag apart four times in the last couple of days.
      First time I did have poor spark as I had the fiber washers
      placed wrong on the "kill post".
      At one point, the little outboard ran down in the slow range
      nicely for a minute or so, but started running erratic.
      I’ve tried the coil heel to magnetic rotor set at .008
      and .012 as the manual says. I think spark jumping an
      air gap was better at .008.
      I had adjusted the points at .020 and called it good,
      but yesterday I put at dial indicator in the plug holes
      and hooked up a buzz box across the points to get
      the two cylinders synced in their firing as close as I could.
      It runs nice "Fast", but when you get down to the "Start"
      area, it bogs out.
      I’ve tried all combinations of setting the "Low" and "High"
      speed needles. So far the best combination seems to
      be about 1/2 turn open on each needle. I tried starting
      out at the manual’s recommended 3/4 turn each, but
      it ran way too rich.
      This is the only one of the three HD’s that I replaced the
      condensers with .20 uf "orange cap" capacitors.
      All the carbs were "cleaned, probed, and blown out", etc.,
      so I’m not sure what the problem could be.
      The flywheel had no noticeable sideways movement.
      I have an older HD-15 apart but not real hopeful
      it will run any better!
      Running out of my own ideas.
      Suggestions welcomed. Thanks!

      Prepare to be boarded!

      #56416
      garry-in-michigan
      Participant

        Lifetime Member

        This is what I have . . . 🙄


        #56422
        Buccaneer
        Participant

          US Member

          Garry, Thanks. I have the same information, some probably
          from you last year :-), but it’s making me think more
          about the carburetor itself.
          I don’t think the syncro linkage from the mag to carb
          is adjustable (other than bending it), but something
          to think about. Will read the carb data again!
          Thanks!

          Prepare to be boarded!

          #56431
          garry-in-michigan
          Participant

            Lifetime Member

            Usually if the primer works and the taper on the idle needle valve is even, the idle should be good. If the hole in the crankcase is plugged behind the low speed insert, that’s another story. . . 😕

            #56439
            Buccaneer
            Participant

              US Member

              Garry, after re-reading the "HD & HS Carb Adjustments"
              page you sent, it mentioned an alternate way,
              closing the high speed needle all the way, and starting
              the outboard with the low speed 3/4 turn open.
              Warm it up, tune in the low speed, then go to full
              advance and tune in the High speed. I’ve always done
              it the "other way" on every other outboard, but
              this alternate way worked great on this HD-25.
              As I was retarding the magneto, I caught on to
              a secondary problem. When retarding to about "Start"
              (from the Fast position) it would start running erratic.
              The mag lever was vibrating some on the gas tank.
              I pushed down on the lever to stop it from rattling,
              and it started running normal. Couldn’t see anything
              arcing, so I tightened the tension screw tighter
              on the mag plate. I had to tighten it so it was a little
              stiffer than I’d like, but it took care of the erratic
              running, and then idled down smooth as a Swiss watch!
              I think I finally have at least one good running HD-25!
              Thanks for the help!

              Prepare to be boarded!

              #56446
              fisherman6
              Participant

                US Member

                Glad to hear you got the little guy to finally cooperate! Great news. I have always done it the ‘other way’ too. If I get into one of these, I’ll remember that.
                -Ben

                OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

                #56454
                Buccaneer
                Participant

                  US Member

                  I at least want to get it on the lake once to try it out,
                  and perhaps even find some little lakes I’ve never been
                  on to "fish". It would be a great little puddle jumper!

                  Prepare to be boarded!

                  #56461
                  Mumbles
                  Participant

                    Here’s a perfect example where an ATOM ignition module would come in handy. They are designed to work on motors with worn or sloppy mag plates.


                    Attachments:

                    #56467
                    Buccaneer
                    Participant

                      US Member

                      Mumbles, that’s food for thought with the modules….
                      but if an EMP goes off over the lake, will I have to
                      row home? 🙂
                      I was wondering if there’s a conductive lubricant
                      that enhances conductivity that could be used
                      on mag plates? Some kind of graphite spray?
                      I’m a little confused about dielectric grease as
                      it says’ "non conductive", but I’ve used it
                      on flash light battery contacts to keep them
                      corroding, and the light still comes on!

                      Prepare to be boarded!

                      #56469
                      fisherman6
                      Participant

                        US Member

                        I believe the idea behind dielectric grease is to keep contaminants including water out and reduce corrosion. Also, by being non-conductive, it helps prevent current leakage around the contact points thereby keeping more of the current flowing in the desired direction rather than escaping through points of potential resistance along the way. I use it a lot and it works well.
                        -Ben

                        OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

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