Johnson Model A

[kevinrude]

I picked up my first Johnson Model A yesterday. According to a serial number chart I found somewhere, the motor is a 1924. It sounds like there is compression in one cylinder only (I can’t tell for sure as I do not have the appropriate sized hose with my compression tester — I’ll have to get one). One of the transom clamp handles is snapped off, but other than that, the motor appears to be complete.

So, two questions for now:

(1) The bolt holes in the flywheel are incredibly skinny, IMO. Is it safe to hook up a standard puller, using these bolt holes, to pull up the flywheel?

(2) Any tips or tricks you can give for getting one of these up and running?

Thanks!

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

If memory serves the holes in the flywheel are a bastard size… DO NOT make them bigger as you then will not be able to install rope sheave….Don’t ask…LOL

Coils rarely go bad, might have stuck rings on side that does not have compression.

Transom clamp: is the threaded part broke? If so I might have just what you need…

Got pics????

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[lotec]

The Johnson Waterbug/Lightwins are a great motor, one of the most reliable outboards ever made! To answer your questions:

#1) DO NOT use the rope plate screws to pull the flywheel, they are brass and not long enough or strong enough. Also, the original rope plate screws are an odd size/pitch so you can’t use the holes in the flywheel with a modern fastener for pulling. I don’t remember the size/pitch (something like #12-26) but they are impossible to find today so take care of the ones you have. Best to make a "knocker" to remove the flywheel, I think photos have been posted before on how to do this. Be very careful, if needed use penetrating oil and a little heat – if you still have the original 1924 stepped flywheel, they are known to be fragile.

#2) There’s a lot of info that applies to the A-series you may find helpful in the write-up I did for the YankeeAOMCI site when we celebrated Johnson’s 85th anniversary. Here’s the link, scroll about 1/2 way down: http://www.yankeeaomci.org/johnsonat85.htm

There’s also lots of good information over on the green board under the "Old Iron Reference Library" and in the 1970s OUTBOARDER archives.

I’m with Richard, disassemble the cylinders to make sure your rings are free, hopefully that’s the issue with the compression. You may find the original backfire baffles in the intake, many remove them to ensure they don’t break apart and cause damage. (I think there have been other posts on this subject) As noted in the YankeeAOMCI write-up, the condensers and wires often need replacing. The only other common bother I’ve found is check valves in the waterpump are subject to getting stuck – they are pretty easy to free up though.

Parts may be available from Doug Penn and I think Art DeKalb made some things like transom pads, etc…

[kevinrude]

quote Richard A. White:

If memory serves the holes in the flywheel are a bastard size… DO NOT make them bigger as you then will not be able to install rope sheave….Don’t ask…LOL

Coils rarely go bad, might have stuck rings on side that does not have compression.

Transom clamp: is the threaded part broke? If so I might have just what you need…

Got pics????

Yeah, I noticed that the rope sheave was held into the same skinny holes. That’s the other thing that gave me pause.

The threaded part is OK, just one of the handles (I want to call them "taps" because they kinda look like water taps outside my house) is broken.

Thanks for the info!!

[kevinrude]

quote lotec:

The Johnson Waterbug/Lightwins are a great motor, one of the most reliable outboards ever made! To answer your questions:

#1) DO NOT use the rope plate screws to pull the flywheel, they are brass and not long enough or strong enough. Also, the original rope plate screws are an odd size/pitch so you can’t use the holes in the flywheel with a modern fastener for pulling. I don’t remember the size/pitch (something like #12-26) but they are impossible to find today so take care of the ones you have. Best to make a "knocker" to remove the flywheel, I think photos have been posted before on how to do this. Be very careful, if needed use penetrating oil and a little heat – if you still have the original 1924 stepped flywheel, they are known to be fragile.

#2) There’s a lot of info that applies to the A-series you may find helpful in the write-up I did for the YankeeAOMCI site when we celebrated Johnson’s 85th anniversary. Here’s the link, scroll about 1/2 way down: http://www.yankeeaomci.org/johnsonat85.htm

There’s also lots of good information over on the green board under the "Old Iron Reference Library" and in the 1970s OUTBOARDER archives.

I’m with Richard, disassemble the cylinders to make sure your rings are free, hopefully that’s the issue with the compression. You may find the original backfire baffles in the intake, many remove them to ensure they don’t break apart and cause damage. (I think there have been other posts on this subject) As noted in the YankeeAOMCI write-up, the condensers and wires often need replacing. The only other common bother I’ve found is check valves in the waterpump are subject to getting stuck – they are pretty easy to free up though.

Parts may be available from Doug Penn and I think Art DeKalb made some things like transom pads, etc…

Thanks for the response! Your #1 above jives with what Richard said too. I’ll hafta research the knocker as you suggest.

Funny that you mention the Yankee chapter website in #2. When I was inspecting the motor, I had called up that exact website on my phone so that I could look at your pictures and compare to what I was seeing in the actual motor. That’s where I noticed it was all complete, including the air horn (at least I think that thing coming out of the carb is an air horn) and the fact that the transom clamps were correct. I also concluded from your website that this motor was one of the "older" ones because the model # and serial # were stamped in the same area, unlike the picture on your website which you state is for motors from the late 20s/early 30s.

I’ll check out the other sources you suggest as well.

Thanks again!

[Tubs]

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

• This reply was modified 6 years, 8 months ago by Tubs.
• This reply was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by Tubs.

[kevinrude]

quote Tubs:

Removing the flywheel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWgE9XiIBnk

Thanks Tubs!

[Author]

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