Junction box/voltage regulator pic

[flathead]

I’m wondering if you guys can tell if this is wired right. I think the brown wire from the voltage regulator should go to the 20A fuse?
The choke wire comes off the key, I used red/black. If I connect it to the choke (red) wire in the box, it actuates like its supposed to. Just want to be sure that seems right to you.

The light blue wire is the (A) on the key switch. I need to go somewhere with that to run accessories.

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http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww31 … C01767.jpg

http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww31 … C01765.jpg

[flathead]

[frankr]

Can’t see the terminal markings on the regulator, but it doesn’t look right–unless it is an aftermarket regulator. Here is the wiring diagram. It is the true story.

Note that the 20A fuse on the terminal strip feeds the power take-off posts on the bottom of the junction box cover. That is all it does. So don’t get all hung up on that unless you use the PTO. The other fat brown wires are the charging wire and go straight through the terminal strip, in one side and out the other, no fuse. The 4A fuse is in the generator field circuit (blue wire). That one needs to be there or the generator won’t work.

It is EXTREMELY important that the regulator be wired correctly. Otherwise, the smoke will get out. Identify the Bat, Gen, and Fld terminals. NEVER connect the Bat terminal to the Fld terminal.

The A terminal on the ignition switch (marked as "I" on some switches) is for an accessory that you want to operate only when the key is on, such as a fuel gauge. Otherwise not used on this motor.

The cable with grey sheath doesn’t look original. Wire colors coming from it are confusing. What’s with the white one connected to black?

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[garry-in-michigan]

In all the Evinrude generator systems I have seen, On the regulator the Center Field connection is a 4 amp fused 16 gauge blue wire. The yellow 14 gauge armature wire is on the right, and the 10 gauge brown battery wire on the left. Usually the regulator is marked B – F – A. The Field and Armature studs on the generator are different so sizes so to theoretically be impossible to get wrong. (Don’t bet on it after 50 years) . . . 😉

[flathead]

The grey sheathed wire bundle is not original. It’s mine that I’m using to wire the boat. The lite blue wire is what I want to use as accessories. I’d like to put it on the 20A fuse if I can. I don’t know if the regulator is aftermarket or not. I can’t find any #’s on it. On the regulator, the brown wire is battery term. Blue wire is field. Yellow wire is Arm.(I can’t read that terminal, but I assume it has to be armature.)
The white wire connected to the black, and the black/black are the magneto wires. The red/black wire coming from key is what I’m using for choke. So will it work if I tag the red/black onto the red choke solenoid wire, use my (A) lite blue on the 20A fuse? I’m not using the PTO.
If I’m understanding this, it shouldn’t matter where the brown wire is on the strip, the blue wire needs to be on the 4A fuse.
Also, I was wondering if someone might have the original part # for the regulator? I would like to get one, if this one is not original. It seems like it’s too big, going to be tough to mount. I’m going to have to mount it separate from the junction box or get the bigger regulator/junction box.

[flathead]

I came up with another question for you guys. How would I wire the key, to kill the motor?

[Anonymous]

Two black wires (one from each set of points) go to the "M" terminals on the key switch

[frankr]

If you are going to spring for a new regulator, consider getting one of the solid state ones made for old Harley Davidsons. They are on e-bay all the time. Just one thing: Make sure you get the one for the 10 Amp system. There is a look-alike for higher amps—you don’t want that one. And the color code of the wires is different. I have it here somewhere if I dig deep enough.

[Author]

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