just heads up…clutch and shaft binding CD

[crosbyman]

Upon re-assembly my cd  GC  where I was installing the gaskets and all  ….

 

without the impeller housing over the  impeller base plate I could not turn the drive shaft due to severe binding

leading me to thing the clutch  itself was binding….it was free turning with a screwdriver but….no go with the drive shaft inserted in the cluch  ????

Well… I eventually  installed the full impeller housing to see if it was just  my  “misaligned  hand  turned   drive shaft”  causing the  clucth to bind solidly after a 3/4 turn  clockwise.

 it was…. with the impeller housing     the shaft and clutch lined up  perfectly  and  voilà .    free wheeling shaft …and clutch

 

one more for the experience bag….:-)

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[Mumbles]

Your new gasket might be too thin. There’s not much clearance between the clutch and the bearing housing at the best of time.

[crosbyman]

installed 1/32 gasket   based on the  curvy  gasket thickness …        but in any event the drive shaft  truns ok  now  that is aligned properly  with the impeller housing in place.

 

will continue on the yellow brick road… to  a happy pressurized GC hopefully

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[labrador-guy]

crosbyman are you sure the shockabsorber is the correct length?  Those things are a major problem.  I have had several that were broken they get to long and they drag something awful.   Squeeze them together and weld them.  Problem solved.

dale

[crosbyman]

OK i’ll check it out     should be 6 inch 11/16 from what I read in  several a POST searches

but it does turn freely with the pump housing in place so it can’t be to bad.??

 

I have a bore scope so  …colonoscopy tomorrow !

 

 

 

 

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[aquasonic]

There is a way to check the pinion shock without removing the bearing/driveshaft seal housing. Take a high intensity flashlight and look inside the housing with the driveshaft removed. You should be able to see the top of the pinion shock.

Using a small piece of stiff wire such as piano wire bent into a 90 degree angle with around 1/8″ of wire past the 90 degree turn, check for clearance between the top of the pinion shock and the bottom of the bearing/seal housing.

If the shock is ok there will be approximately 1/16″ or more of clearance between the top of the pinion shock and the bearing/seal housing. I do this now every time I change a water pump. This can be a time saver and eliminates the need for a new housing gasket.

 

Improvise-Adapt-Overcome

[crosbyman]

I will report back on my findings asap   thanks for the tip

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[crosbyman]

update…. shock clucth spins fine  under the impeller  base plate

peeked inside no breaks ….

Has suggested I  tried the 90 degree stiff wire test and room to spare  ……..sealed up the impeller with homemade gasket  and sealer

As to the busted pivot pin  and  has  suggested    I  filed down the threads on a 1/4  28 tpi   stainless  steel  2″ bolt and cut to lenght  …works perfectly and  the bolt’s fat headed   philips  will never strip again.  see pict… not perfect ( I just used a drill press to hold things while I  filed out  the threads )

I know SS and aluminum  don’t like each other but…a few wraps of teflon tape should slow the agression between 2 metals

I will reassemble  the GC and pressure test the new seals  and  finish this winter project  🙂

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[crosbyman]

ok this may be a Spring project…  GC  sealed up     hold 10-15 lbs …great  🙂

except the gears can hardly turn  by hand on the prop  or by the drive shaft . ??? 🙁

clutch  was free wheeling under the  pump  so what give ??  but I am getting better at sealing clamshells. 🙂

I can almost hear the gears grinding

this engine had no  big issues  before I went overboard  to reseal the prop  shaft 🙁      should have just  changed the oil mid season 🙁

 

any hints of the stuck gears ??

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[labrador-guy]

You might have missed your bushing alignment pins.   The gears/prop shaft should turn easy.

dale

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