just heads up…clutch and shaft binding CD

[crosbyman]

I aligned thefront pin any others…… can you post  part#  on the CD17-18 picture…             not the qd#15  I could not remove

 

I will start all over next week with a clear head  🙁

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[fleetwin]

I’m not sure why you ground that linkage pivot screw that way, but it won’t work out well.  You have ground down the pin so the linkage arm will be sloppy on that one side…  I would just find another pivot screw or order a new one (new ones have an oring-older ones used a little gasket).  And yes, SS mated against aluminum can create a corrosion issue but I have never seen any problems with this application.  I have never seen a case where the threads got jammed with salt, unless of course the gearcase sat around with no oil, just full of salt water…And usually in this case, the skeg was split open anyway.  The screw you have now will work fine for sealing and inspection purposes, but should be replaced prior to using the engine.

Back to the original issue of possible shock expansion/gearcase binding.   You mentioned that the gearcase spun OK with the upper driveshaft removed using a screwdriver, do I have it right?  If so, that seems to rule out the expanded shock concern.  Perhaps the upper driveshaft was just tight in the new seal and bushing.  In any event, it seems like Brent’s trick is a good one for sure when checking for this issue.

Now, it seems like there is an issue with the gears binding/grinding??  If so, perhaps this is what was causing the driveshaft to be tough to turn.  And yes, perhaps you crushed the forward bushing alignment pin, or perhaps there is just some debris on the gear teeth.  Unfortunately, it is probably best to pull the unit apart again and have a look.  I totally understand how frustrating this is, means an hour of clean up time, new spaghetti seal and prop shaft bushing oring.  It is amazing how such a simple gearcase can be such a headache.

[fleetwin]

aquasonic wrote:

There is a way to check the pinion shock without removing the bearing/driveshaft seal housing. Take a high intensity flashlight and look inside the housing with the driveshaft removed. You should be able to see the top of the pinion shock.

Using a small piece of stiff wire such as piano wire bent into a 90 degree angle with around 1/8″ of wire past the 90 degree turn, check for clearance between the top of the pinion shock and the bottom of the bearing/seal housing.

If the shock is ok there will be approximately 1/16″ or more of clearance between the top of the pinion shock and the bearing/seal housing. I do this now every time I change a water pump. This can be a time saver and eliminates the need for a new housing gasket.

 

What a great idea Brent!!

[crosbyman]

pivot  pin concern..  actually my pin works very well but I understand the  wobbly  concern…..the shaft part   although is not perfect does go into the 3/16  hole of the shifter .     the threads  do no go inside the GC to block anything

I’ll reshape a new  pin correctly without that taper and take the whole GC appart  and rebuild.

my dealer is currently  shut down for anoter month (winter) and I won’t order  from the U$ due to costs of shipping  taxes exchange etc…  I don’t usually balk at pricing but  this small piece  irks me!  ………  but I would like to prep this thing and be done with it.

patience brings joy….. thanks for comments

 

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[Steve D]

crosbyman, Not sure what neck of the woods you are in Canada, or how much it would cost to ship the pin to you from Rochester, NY, but I’ve got one I could send you if you wanted it.

Edit: I don’t know what happened but the parts diagram for RD lower unit showed up that I never included. I tried to insert a picture of a pivot pin. I don’t get this website sometimes…..

[Bob Wight]

Steve D – you’ve been through a pile of motors to have that nice collection of pivot pins, yoke pins and drain/fill plugs!

Bob

1937 Champion D2C Deluxe Lite Twin
1954 Johnson CD-11
1955 Johnson QD-16
1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18
1957 Evinrude 3022
1958 Johnson QD-19
1958 Johnson FD-12
1959 Johnson QD-20

“Every 20 minute job is only a broken bolt away from a 3-day project.”
"Every time you remove a broken or seized bolt an angel gets his wings."

[Steve D]

Yeah, about 20 years worth of parts motors helps the spare parts inventory.

[crosbyman]

Steve   thanks very much..will keep you in mind  .  My homemade pivot pin looks (is)  a bit tappered  but let me give it a try  with my stock of   1/4 -28 tpi x 2″  bolts  I can turn down to 3/16   .. I’ll reshape another one

I realy like the fat philips head on these SS bolt.   my big concern  are the hard turning gears.    I’ll open it up  next week &  start fresh  on a clean bench  ..we shall see whart happens

it was all fine before  I took it apart   so I screwed up  somewhere… now I need to now 🙂

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[Steve D]

We’ve all been there, it’s frustrating trying to figure out why….you can alter bobw’s saying, ““Every 20 minute job is only a re-assembly away from a 3-day project.” You’ll get it eventually.

[crosbyman]

3 days sounds good…  🙂

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