KE-4 Rocket ?s

[Tubs]

quote nali:

This wrench with 2 rods is a really nice idea !
Not only for a Mercury, but I’m sure it can be useful for some other projects.

I believe it was jw in dixie who first shared this trick.
It was years ago but it impressed me enough
that it stayed with me. Works really well.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Anonymous]

quote Wyo307:

Now my next question is about the water jackets. I haven’t planed on pulling the cylinders because the compression is good (both in the mid 90s) but I dont see an easy way to clean off the rust and scaling from the outside of the cylinder heads and the inside of the water jackets without removing them. Does anyone have any suggestions for me on how to go about getting all of that crap out of there while keeping the crankcase together? If I have to take the heads off I would go ahead and hone it and put new rings in but if I can avoid it I would like to.

Thank you all again for you help

Hopefully one of the many with more experience will chime in here. Personally with compression as good as what you have, I would hate to pull the cylinders apart.

[wyo307]

quote kirkp:

quote Wyo307:

Now my next question is about the water jackets. I haven’t planed on pulling the cylinders because the compression is good (both in the mid 90s) but I dont see an easy way to clean off the rust and scaling from the outside of the cylinder heads and the inside of the water jackets without removing them. Does anyone have any suggestions for me on how to go about getting all of that crap out of there while keeping the crankcase together? If I have to take the heads off I would go ahead and hone it and put new rings in but if I can avoid it I would like to.

Thank you all again for you help

Hopefully one of the many with more experience will chime in here. Personally with compression as good as what you have, I would hate to pull the cylinders apart.

I agree but I don’t know how I am going to clean out all the crap from the water jackets without pulling them.

[RICHARD A. WHITE]

If the crud can be dissolved by some type of citrus fluid,or any other fluid, you might attempt to flush it …. just finding the correct and proper fluid that wont damage the block

http://www.richardsoutboardtools.com
classicomctools@gmail.com

[green-thumbs]

KE4 / Mark 7 are what we would now call modular design motors, that is, they are built up from several distinct components. Good in that individual components can be accessed and changed it need be and bad in that care must be taken when assembling to make sure all gaskets are in place and will seal joints to prevent leakage. You find out if you have done it right when you start it up engine. Either leaks or it doesn’t. Fortunately until the gasket
sealant sets up engine can be disassembled and situation corrected. Usually without damaging gaskets so they can be reused. Electric hair dryer on high may help soften
not yet set up sealant to save gaskets.
Corrosion of the aluminum/zinc alloy water jackets is normally not a problem with motors
operated in fresh water. Salt or polluted water especially if left on boat will chew up the
jackets. Propeller and lower unit will reflect this also. A corroded and pitted propeller
likely means similar condition with water jackets. JB Weld can be used to repair pitted
interior of water jackets if not excessive.
If the cast iron cylinders are heavily corroded they can be removed and bead blasted to
bright metal and reused. When installing cylinder on pistons be sure ends of all three rings
center on the locating pin on piston….you have to get that right…if engine turns over tight
it could be ring is riding on locating pin…take it apart and start over. Note how motor
turns over before working on it so you will have a reference "feel" for how it should be after reassembly.

If you intend to do a complete tear down remove rings from pistons before removing piston
pin…failure to do so can lead to damage to piston and rings…this is a "do it right or do not
do it." The Kiekhaefer KE4 & Mark 7 were well proven designs with a gearfoot strong enough to be used with larger and more powerful KE7, KF7,KG7 and KG4. Condition of a KE4
Mark 7 will reflect prior use and care. An original untouched powerhead and gear foot will have the same seals and bearings it left the factory with in late 1940s early 1950s. If you are
lucky there will be no serious wear or corrosion issues to crankshaft. driveshaft or propshaft
Sometimes there are and you will either have to live with what you find or find something
better…a parts motor is a good thing to have around.
Louis

I

[brian]

If you have a picture I would like to see the condition of the water jackets. I’ve had these ke4/Mk7 come to life without cleaning them internally and they cool very well.

[nali]

Why not Evaporust ? A bit expensive, but it seems to be the ideal choice in this case, since it doesn’t hurt anything but rust.

[wyo307]

I will try to take a picture of what I am talking about today and post it up so that everyone can see what I am talking about. I really would rather not crack the crankcase open if I can avoid it.

I like the Evaporust Idea.

[green-thumbs]

Best way to learn is by doing. Practice on a motor you can not hurt. There are more than a few
stuck, broken or missing parts KE4 Mark 7 around. Usually you can salvage some parts…sometimes even a part you might need…someday. You might learn a little by
looking thru past files and photos on Jason’s Wizard site. Western Auto bought outboards
from Kiekhaefer from 1940 to 1957 so the two brands share basics at least. Although there
is no Wizard version of KE4 Mark 7. I have a Mark 7 with a KE4 serial number…dealer sent in tag and factory sent new id tag so dealer could sell as a current model…I also have
a first run KE4 with early KD4 pistons, rods and cylinders….factory did not waste good
parts and it is shown that way in parts manual.
Anyway I once shared you reluctance to delve into matters I did not understand. If you are
not comfortable with it don’t do it. If you can not resist the urge to wrench, have at it.
You will break things and or find things already broke that you will have to parts chase.
It is all part of the fun if you look at things that way.
Louis

Louis

[wyo307]

Here is what I am wanting to clean up. I realize this doesn’t have any affect on the cooling ability of the motor but I would like to clean it up while I am in there instead of leaving it. These are the tops of the heads and the insides of the two water jackets. There is just surface rust on everything from it not being in use for who knows how long. Unless anyone has a better suggestion I think I will be going with nali’s suggestion of the Evaporust because I can just submerge the heads in it with old spark plugs in it and there shouldn’t ever be any get into the crank case that way. I can also just toss the water jackets in a container of that stuff for a while and it should take care of it.

[Author]

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