KE-7 crank removal questions

[opposedtwin]

2 disassembled (mostly) Mercury KE-7s came to me in a couple boxes and I’m hoping to get one out of the two. There is zero chance both poewheads can be resurrected. Soooo…. how do I remove the crank and main bearing? It seems obvious it has to go out the bottom but the main (center) bearing doesn’t seem to want to move, even though I removed the bolt that holds it to the block.

Any suggestions?

[johng]

Hi, Get out your can of PB Blaster and soak the top crank bearing after you have removed the top crank seal. Then soak all around the center bearing (reed block) and let sit a day. Then get (2) 3/8" dia. x 3/4" long bolt & nut. screw together to support the (2) crank fillets when you start to press out the crank. You have to do this or you will damage the crank. You might also use some heat around crankcase bearing area. Good luck.

[dave-bernard]

johng is spot on.

[johng]

Opposed twin. I forgot to tell you to remove the Crank Key before pressing out the crank.

[jw-in-dixie]

If you don’t have a press, I have used a bumper jack. Failing that, there’s always the Special Mercury Tool. 😈

http://s218.photobucket.com/user/Dixieflash/media/TOOLS%20JIGS%20ETC/BLACKSMITHWITHBIGHAMMER.jpg.html?sort=4&o=8

[opposedtwin]

ok, I think I see it. join the nut to the bolt, put it between the fillets and unscrew nut until the bolt/nut are snug and will support the fillets, correct?

I don’t have a press but should be able to rig up something to sneak it out of there.

But removing the seal. can it be accomplished like removing an OMC top crank seal? drill a hole, screw in a drywall screw and try to work the seal out?

[20mercman]

As was suggested, a liberal application of heat around the reed block area will allow the case to expand and will greatly ease removal. The bolts as was talked about are to support the crankshaft as you are forcing the reed block out. The throws of the crank should be aligned with the bolts that hold the reed stops on. KE-7’s may have a pin on the block for this. This keeps the force applied directly to the reed block. Protect the threads on the crankshaft and a dead blow hammer will move it out. I have done many like this with good results. These are great running motors, and are really the motor that made Mercury a success.

Steve

P.S. When you are all done with the project, I am looking for a rotor if you have an extra one

[gofastgramps]

I just remove the key and the cage bolt, set the case over a open vice so the bottom opining is clear heat the center main area with a large propane or map torch and usually it just falls out. If not a small tap on the end of the crank does it. I install it the same way only work fast. I have done many of them with no problem. gary

[jeff-register]

Gary has it right! Bake at 350 for 45 minutes around the crankcase/reedblock area & it will fall out. Use the freezer & heat to have it fall back in fastly,

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