KF5 lower unit lube

[bill-m]

Hi all, I had an old tube of Quicksilver lower unit lube that I have been using in my KF5 which is an amber color. When it ran out, I bought Quicksilver lube in a Qt. bottle and got a pump. The lube in the bottle is blue in color and I was wondering if it was the same as the older lube or if there is a difference and should I be using it. I would like to know what other members would reccomend for lube in this lower unit.

I have been using the refurbished KF5 I rescued from my brother’s garage on my Montgomery Wards 14 ft Sea King for the past year and a half and it works great. I do have a problem at high speed. When I get close to top speed it starts to crap out. I adjusted the carb to specs in the Mercury manual and don’t know what else to do. It idles down to about 1-2 mph which is great for trolling which is great because that is what is most desirable to me and it humms along just great at all speeds except when I get close to highspeed. This may be normal, I don’t know. I’m not in that big of a hurry to go fast but would like it to run properly.

Also, since getting the KF5 out of my brother’s garage, he has passed away. His son, my nephew, has given me his other two motors. One is a 1959 Johnson Sea-Horse 10 hp. QD20. The other motor is a 1972 Evinrude 9.5 hp 9222M. The Evinrude has 3 1 inch holes drilled in the cover just above what appears to be the muffler. Is there a reason for these holes? Both motors were running 20 plus years ago but I haven’t tried to turn them over yet. These don’t seem to be desirable for collectors but would be great daily drivers. I would like any opinions on these two motors. Thank you all!

P.S. A great thanks to Mumbles for posting the chart that helped me to identify these motors!

[fisherman6]

Hi Bill,
I’m no expert on Mercs by ANY stretch, but I’m thinking you still need to dial in your high speed needle on the boat while running at full throttle. It’s likely starting to crap out from either too rich or lean of a setting on the high speed circuit. It is also possible that the magneto lever simply allows you to "over-advance" the spark to point of having a bad effect on the performance. There may be other factors involved here also and some of the Merc experts can probably help more with that.

I’m sorry for your loss with your brother’s passing. May his old motors live on in his memory. The QD-20 is a wonderful motor in my opinion. I have one and it is one of my favorites to run as a daily runner. The biggest thing to note with the ’58-’63 OMC 10s is keeping the gearcase sealed. Water intrusion will kill the 4-bolt case on a 10 horse pretty quickly. As long as it is sealed and full of oil, it will run a very long time and at a pretty good clip doing it.

The ’72 9.5 most likely has an exhaust leak somewhere either at the foam seal between the inner and outer shell or the water outlet under the cover. That is probably why the holes were drilled in the cover. It allows more fresh air in so the carb doesn’t inhale as much exhaust. This can be fixed with a but of work and they are nice running fishing motors as long as the motor mounts are not broken. It will not keep up with the 10 in a drag race though.
-Ben

OldJohnnyRude on YouTube

[jw-in-dixie]

Check fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel line from the carb or tank and see if the flow is adequate and continuous. Not sure but I think that motor has a fiber fuel filter inside the tank. They are frequently fouled with ancient oil, shellac, rust, etc, and will pass fuel okay for low speeds but not enough at high speeds. Look under the starboard rear of the tank for a BIG nut, which is the filter. Takes a large wrench and muscle to remove. Also can shine a small flashlight thru the fill hole and see the filter. Good luck. They are great little motors. JW

[amuller]

I agree with suspecting fuel flow.

[bill-m]

Thanks for the info fellas. When I went through this motor it had a home made brass screen filter in it. I tried to find an original filter to no avail. However, I did locate a used filter and cleaned it up. The AJ-30 carb leaks even after rebuilding so I figured it was getting plenty of gas. I may install an inline filter as this is a daily driver and not a show piece.
I also replaced all coils, points and condensers. I was very careful not to move the mag plate but I guess that doesn’t mean that nothing move. I don’t have one of those degree wheels and am not sure how to use one any way so I will check the repair manual and see if there is something I can do without it.
I really love this little KF5 motor. It is light weight and I do not travel to the lake with it on the boat. I got it for free but put enough into it that could have bought a new 3.5 motor. But what’s the fun in a new motor?
I will bring those other two motors home in a few weeks and evaluate them. They will be good projects for the next few winters. My boat is rated for 12 hp or less so both motors will work fine. The only concern is weight. The Evinrude doesn’t look so bad but that Johnson looks to be pretty heavy. Thanks again for the info!

[outbdnut2]

On that 9.5, another way the exhaust could be getting to the powerhead is broken rubber bellows on the shift rod where it goes through from the exhaust housing to the inner housing where the powerhead is – you cannot see this part without taking a lot of stuff apart. The bellows is a discontinued part.
The motor has no muffler – the exhaust goes out underwater to make it quiet. What you are seeing is the carb intake intake screen. It’s a flat metal part with round holes in it.

When that model motor won’t idle good without the cover removed, the bellows I mentioned or the items Fisherman6 mentioned are the culprits, allowing exhaust to go up under the cover and be pulled into the carb.
Dave

[Author]

Posts