well my wireless remote kicker shut-off came in …
tested it with a 12v supply and works great .. it will handle 10 amps at 30 volts (more than adequate to remotely short out the points)
a simple switched feed of 12v to the module inside the 9.5 kicker and hooking the normally open (N/O) contacts across the engine’s regular kill wires on the kill button should do it …..and no need to drill another hole in the console
if anything goes bezerk with the gizmo a quick disconnect joint will restore the kicker’s autonomy 🙂
Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂