Lower unit lubricant

[CARY PALMER]

Just picked up a sweet little 1967 Johnson 3 horse and am going thru it to make sure everything is copasetic before trying to fire it up.  Removed the carb, disassembled, cleaned, and ordered a Sierra  rebuild kit for it.  Also tore into the lower unit and found the waterpump impeller to be in good shape.  Lower unit had leaked most of the lube out so I replaced the O-ring and now need to fill with lube.  I have a tube of Lubriplate and am wondering if that is appropriate for this use.

[crosbyman]

it is my understanding that for non shifting GC    lubriplate is ok    or  John Deere Corn Head grease….but

why not just refill with regular GC oil  like the book  says to do.

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[Tubs]

If the person who used it last didn’t drain the gear case to check for water, and all the gear oil actually did leak out, the gear case would need the seals replaced.

A "Boathouse Repair" is one that done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[CARY PALMER]

Unfortunately I don’t  have a manual for this motor and can’t seem to find one for that particular model and year (1967, 3hp).  Any ideas on where I might find such a thing?   Also, what weight GC green should I use?  The GC wasn’t completely empty but close to it and there was no water present.   Do you still think I need to replace the sealsanyway Tubs?

[Steve D]

Online manual here: https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1967&hp=3&model=JW-22

2 seals #11 and #20

[crosbyman]

just fill with  90 grade GC oil …run it a week or two  and recheck for water  ingress. if no water  recheck mid season and if none you are all set .

change the nylon crush washers  under bolt #17  to seal the bolt face  properly

 

if water comes in you have  3 options

learn and seal the GC

change the oil mid season

use  lubriplate grease  or john deere which is tolerant to water

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[outbdnut2]

I use marine gearcase oil in my 3 HPs that are like yours.  Be sure to use Marine gear oil.  Regular gear oil for cars does not have the additive to emulsify any water that gets in, which helps prevent rust and keeps it all in suspension, and lubricating until really a lot of water gets in.  You may need the seal on the prop shaft – not the big O-ring you replaced.  There is also a seal where the driveshaft goes in, under the water pump impeller.  It’s these two seals that usually leak – not the O-ring.

Dave

[CARY PALMER]

Thanks to each one of you for your knowledgeable responses.  This is what makes this organization so great – everyone willing to come along side those of us who need a bit of fatherly advice from time to time.   You are an amazing bunch of grey beards!!!

[crosbyman]

here is a good way to know 100%   if you need to replace seals..  about a 40$ investment on Amazon .

8MILELAKE 21PC Hand Held Vacuum Pressure Pump Tester Kit Brake Fluid Bleeder Bleeding Kit, Brake System Bleeding Tools – Amazon Canada

the pump does not come with  the  3/8 16tpi  thread adapter so look for a oil pump kit like the video shows.  you  can use it to pump your oil  and…. supply the pressure adapter with the necessary thread adapter to pressurize the GC.

you can also to  a VACUM test to confirm the seals work both ways !

my 75hp was  tested perfect yet water got in one season …   now I always use new nylons under the bolts   !!

https://youtu.be/lnhZFn5gkG4

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