Mark 30 distributor removal

[bsplit]

I’m trying to remove the distributor from an electric start Mark 30, and after removing the 4 screws to drop the distributor, I don’t have enough clearance on the bottom to completely remove the distributor. I would try to remove the cap, but I can’t get a screwdriver on the innermost screw. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

[PM T2]

Its a real PITA but it can be done. I get them out of there, but it usually involves in undoing some of the throttle or shift linkages in the bottom of the belly pan. I also take the carbs out to give me extra space.

Tiller models are worse, but I’ve gotten it out of there on those also.

But I can see why some guys like to take the powerhead off to do magneto work.

Hope this helps.

Best,
PM T2

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...

[bsplit]

Thanks for the advice…..I’ve done it before….even on one with a tiller. It seems like on the others, I could remove it after only taking out the four screws, eh?

[dave-bernard]

go from under the pan to get to the cap screws after dropping the mag.

[chinewalker]

Try maneuvering the throttle linkage. I found there were spots where the linkage had more clearance and allowed me to remove the mag.

[bsplit]

Thanks all….

[dave-bernard]

is it a FM mag or KEIKHEAFER ?

[bsplit]

Fairbanks Morse…..I am going to wait until Spring to go back to work on that motor. I’ve had it about 15 years, and was just wondering if I could get to run. It does have a very weak spark, but does not fire.

Thanks,
Jim

[Anonymous]

Far easier and less time to remove recoil and then the power head. Also no frustration fighting the 0 clearance to get it out and back in.

[Author]

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