If the condensers on the motor are the old style upright can WICOs, they are tough to find, and you’ll be better off just replacing them with something else. The value isn’t that critical, as long as you use something from an outboard made after WWII. If you really want to go modern, search Cornell Dubilier Orange Drop 716P10456L (600V / 5%) or 716P10496L (600V / 10%) for a 0.1 uf capacitor that should work well. It has to be the 716 series, and has to be 400V or 600V rated. If you want 0.15 uF, the number is 716P154xy, where xy is 56 or 96.
Be sure the bracket that holds the tiller handle is not cracked. That is a weak spot on these motors. People try to tilt the motor by pushing down on the tiller. Nearly impossible to repair well without welding.
Also, be sure the rubber bushing in the propeller is in good shape, if it has that type of prop.
I can’t remember whether there was a 10 hp motor made with the straight leg configuration. If the leg is curved, the pump is just below the powerhead. These are somewhat problematic in that you have to drop the leg to get to them. Then you have to get the shift mechanism out of the way to access the pumps. The roll pins are challenging. If the leg is straight, the pumps are just above the foot, they are easier to obtain, and easier to change.
I’ve owned a bunch of these, and they always wind out when you start them cold. Be ready to crank down the throttle when it starts.
Good luck,
Tom
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